Is it blasphemous to go to an Italian restaurant and not order pasta in red sauce? Well then, forgive me Father, for I have sinned. And I gotta say, all the Hail Marys in world wouldn't make me penitent.

I'd been prepared to order a big bowl of pasta at Germano's Restaurant. Really. I had researched my assignment (germanosrestaurant.com) and found a glossary of 17 sauces, 14 of which are made to order. My taste buds were primed for the puttanesca sauce (extra virgin olive oil, diced Roma tomatoes, chopped olives, capers, garlic, lemon juice, white wine and crushed red pepper) over the Pasta Mista All'Olio Con Pomodori Freschi and Basilico ($17.95) -- ravioli, tortellini and gnocchi tossed in olive oil, garlic, fresh tomatoes and basil.

But then our no-nonsense server told us the specials.

"Could you please repeat the halibut special?" I asked after she'd rattled off several choices with long lists of ingredients.

"It's halibut stuffed with risotto and mozzarella cheese ..." She didn't need to go any further. The siren song of risotto had lodged in my ear, and pasta was now a forgotten dream.

Germano's regular menu includes pasta, seafood, steaks and veal, but they're happy to make your personal favorites upon request as well. "Charlie, the chef, can make anything," our server informed us with her nonchalant Bronx-style charm.

Apparently Charlie isn't the only one with a knack for serving just what you want. For an appetizer we selected the Misto di Salumi, Fromaggio and Verdure Sottaceto, meats, cheeses and marinated vegetables ($11.95). Our server asked if we wanted bruschetta ($6) with it.

"Well, sure," I replied.

"What do you like on it?"

"Tomatoes and olives," I shot back.

"Do you like black or green?" Both.

"Pesto?" Well of course!

Leaving the fine points to her, I was delighted by the result. The grilled slices of bread were topped with everything I love -- salty slices of olives, tomatoes and a creamy pesto that lacked the unfortunate raw garlic bite most pestos have.

I was impressed by the kitchen's attention to detail as well; the antipasto meats and cheeses were room temperature so that we tasted the strong flavors of the sopressata (Italian salami), proscuitto, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago and provolone instead of the inside of someone's refrigerator. The paper-thin slices of proscuitto, surrounded by a quarter-inch layer of fat, slid down our throats, and the olive tapenade was bright, briny and delightful.

Taking a breath between the appetizers and entrées, Mr. Husband and I surmised our surroundings and indulged in Italian beverages -- a Peroni beer ($4.95) served with an icy cold glass for him and a deliciously bold "Super-Tuscan" Castello Banfi 2003 ($7.95) for me.

Germano's dining room, with its white table clothes and softly lit hues of beige and burgundy, suggest an upscale Italian restaurant experience, but the atmosphere is very comfortable and patrons range from young couples on first dates to groups of men in shorts and baseball hats. As the evening progresses and the room gets louder and more jovial, you feel more like you're surrounded by soon-to-be friends rather than a roomful of strangers.

When our mixed green salads arrived, Germano's attention to detail was once again evident. The plates and the dressing containers were cold to the touch, having been refrigerated before service so that our salads would be chilled. And while my citrus balsamic vinaigrette wasn't anything special, the smoky herb undertones of Mr. Husband's basil vinaigrette were wonderful.

My halibut ($29.95) special was served on grilled asparagus spears and topped with diced, sautéed Roma tomatoes seasoned with oregano and, I believe, a hint of vinegar. I was silenced on first bite. With the siren's sweet voice in my ear and the delicate flesh of fish in my mouth, I quickly forgot about being diabetic and taking my insulin shot.

My husband's 12-ounce filet of beef ($36.95), served with pan-fried potatoes and sautéed mushrooms, was not as attractive on the plate, but he popped the luscious medium rare meat into his mouth so quickly that looks made little difference. The potatoes and mushrooms, specially prepared with olive oil rather than butter, were perfectly seasoned with a bit of a spicy kick.

My one regret was that we didn't stop with the entrées. For dessert we ordered the homemade raspberry pie ($6.95), and I wished we would have taken our server's advice on a bowl of fresh raspberries with whipped cream. For me, raspberries need no adornment, so I was disappointed by the gelatinous glaze that covered the berries and a pastry cream.

Even with a disappointing finish, however, we couldn't shake the fact that we had just experienced a near-perfect meal. Waving goodbye to the hostess and bartender, Mr. Husband and I busily began crafting special occasions so we could head back to Germano's soon. ©

Germano's Restaurant
Go: 9415 Montgomery Road, Montgomery

Call: 513-794-1155

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m. Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday

Prices: Expensive

Payment: All major credit cards

Red Meat Alternatives: Pasta, seafood, chicken

Accessibility: Fully accessible, some seating requires going up a step. Parking available behind the restaurant.

Grade: A