AUTHENTIC SOUTHERN COMFORT:

AUTHENTIC SOUTHERN COMFORT:
FROM PAGE 49

($24.95). When I say settle, I’m being a bit ironic, given the fact that fresh-caught Atlantic and Alaskan fish, that is refreshingly not farm-raised, is hardly settling.

Served gratinee style and baked to a golden brown with crabmeat, artichoke hearts and parmesan, the Halibut was thick but not dense and light and buttery — a meltin-your-mouth fish.

While my dining partner was in a moral quandary over ordering the Atlantic salmon, because these salmon are over-fished, his ethics seemed to disappear when he tasted the salmon’s clear flavor and the sweet smokiness of the chili powder and molasses glaze.

By the end of our meal, we almost felt as if we’d consumed more than Southern food and hospitality; we’d experienced part of a historical era, devouring the sweet and bitter history and earthiness of Southern cuisine. Despite some mistakes — the crispy green bean casserole was cold when it arrived, and the mashed potatoes were at room temperature — both the meal and the service were ideal.

And when we shared our issues with our server — who swore it was her first night though we never believed her — she responded by giving us a free dessert: a chocolate mousse that was soft, sweet, and airy. It was the perfect finish to an exceptional September evening. ©