Best Of 2017

Best mob-approved Hot Brown: Green Derby

Best mob-approved Hot Brown

Established in 1947, Newport’s landmark Green Derby is one of the granddaddies of local eateries. It got its name from the original owner, Helen Cummins, as both a reference to a famous California restaurant of the time (the Brown Derby) and a nod to her Irish heritage. She and her husband ran the place until it briefly went out of business in 2009. After an interim ownership for a few years, the Brauninger family bought the Derby almost two years ago with the ambition of making it what it used to be in the 20th century: a haven of home-cooking, a family-oriented community center and a place where the mobsters of Newport’s “Sin City” days met in the kitchen to set the gambling lines. The new Derby definitely sticks with a comfort food menu, and it relives the mob era by displaying dozens of framed, vintage photographs from those days in its main dining room. Although the menu includes pasta and options from land and sea, stick with the “Classics” section and order a traditional Kentucky Bourbon Burgoo or the restaurant’s version of a hot brown, thick-cut bread topped with turkey breast, fresh tomato, a cheesy housemade mornay sauce and plenty of applewood-smoked bacon — broiled to perfection. The Green Derby, 846 York St., Newport, Ky., 859-431-8740, greenderbykentucky.com.