Best Of 2019

Best Detroit-Style Pizza: Taglio

Parmesan and red pepper have been thrown amid hour-long debates about which is better: New York or Chicago-style pizza? But few realize the argument isn’t as black and white as it’s so often portrayed. A happy medium is lost in the scuffle — Detroit-style pizza. And no Cincinnati restaurant does it better than Taglio, from the brothers behind Neapolitan pizzeria A Tavola. Taglio’s Detroit-style pizza is rectangular rather than circular and has a touch of depth. But instead of taking the deep dive that Chicagoans favor, Taglio’s version of the Motor City classic features whole milk mozzarella generously layered around a substantial pan crust so that it caramelizes to form a crispy, cheesy edge. Detroit-style pizza is probably closest to Sicilian-style pie, with a thin layer of baked cheese ’round the outside, and Taglio’s toppings like pepperoni and hot honey or a classic bianco are causing a craze. The flagship Columbia Tusculum pizzeria is expanding and adding a second OTR location in the former Lachey’s bar space, offering cocktails, wine, beer and the same favorite Italian- and Michigan-inspired food menu. Taglio, 3531 Columbia Parkway, Columbia Tusculum, eattaglio.com.