Rich’s Proper Food and Drink opened in November, adding to Covington’s burgeoning restaurant scene. Located next to Duveneck Square and named after a watch store that used to exist in the space decades ago, Rich’s offers New Orleans-inspired Creole-meets-Southern food, from muffuletta sandwiches to mac-and-cheese-stuffed egg rolls. Every Wednesday night, they do East and West Coast oysters for $1 per bivalve. (Note: That doesn’t include specialty oysters, like shooters or fried ones.) To make the deal even better, glasses of sparkling wine are $5 and a bottle is only $25. If oysters aren’t your thing, then sample the red beans and rice burrito, or a cocktail made with gummy worm syrup and coffee grounds (yes, that’s a thing, and it’s delicious). Or if you’re feeling Mardi Gras-ambitious, try the Proper Mule: a bottle of bourbon or vodka mixed with ginger beer and poured into a gallon-sized copper pitcher, priced at $60. To share or not to share — that’s the question. Rich’s Proper Food and Drink, 701 Madison Ave., Covington, facebook.com/richsproper.
A few years ago, nibbling on roasted, curried chickpeas in a former strip club while sipping on craft cocktails didn’t seem possible — that is until cocktail haunt The Globe opened on the once-seedy Fifth Street/Madison Avenue strip in Covington in the former Club Venus. (They even have a drink named after the original shower-show destination, made with prosecco and orange blossom water.) Though the focus here is on bourbon — the bar is on the B-Line NKY bourbon tour and their Fifth Street Manhattan is a must-try — they do offer a small snack menu: a charcuterie board, baked brie, a hummus plate and the aforementioned crispy chickpeas. Served warm in a bowl with a dash of seasoning, the savory snack is the right amount of food to fill your stomach enough to handle more cocktails. And during The Globe’s glorious happy hour, cocktails are $2 off…and the chickpeas are lowered from $4 to $3. The Globe, 12 E. Fifth St., Covington, theglobecov.com.
Downtown’s Yum Yum feels like a time machine sitting inconspicuously among abandoned-looking storefronts on Race Street, with a fading sign boasting the offer to “eat as if you were in China.” Dinner service is from 6-9 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday but the business hours are regarded more as a suggestion than a rule. And remember to stop at the ATM beforehand; it’s cash only. Run by Tom and Mei Lin, the Szechuan restaurant opened its doors in 1975 and not much has changed since then: neither the décor — wood paneling, crimson tablecloths and ornate, low-hanging chandeliers — nor the menus, whose yellowed pages have sustained over 40 years of service with price markups penciled in the margins to account for decades of inflation. And the same typewritten dishes on those menus are still served for dinner: Yum Yum Mein, Sichuan Pepper Steak and Ding Dong Chicken are crowd favorites, and prix fixe dinners ($40 for two) haven’t gone out of style just yet. If the front door is locked, give it a good stiff knock and allow yourself to be surprised. Yum Yum Chinese Restaurant, 909 Race St., Downtown, 513-721-7705.
In 2009, former University of Cincinnati football player Leo Morgan opened up a restaurant to serve Clifton the authentic Jamaican food he had previously been making for his teammates on a smaller scale. Just five years later, Guy Fieri gave Island Frydays an honorary residency in Flavortown, USA thanks, in no small part, to their snapper dinner. A whole red snapper is fried to perfection, crispy skin and all, and bathed in spicy escovitch sauce — a classic Jamaican condiment — to give the ordinarily mild fish a strong kick. The moist meat glides off its skeleton like an overused cliché (even with the plastic fork you’re given in the to-go box) and supplies a delicate flaky texture with each scrumptious bite. Pick any two sides to go along with this prize catch, like their fried sweet plantains and hearty, well-seasoned jerk fries. After finishing this stunning seafood, you may find yourself looking like the picture of Rick Ross hanging on their wall: arms out, head to the sky in solemn appreciation of your satisfied stomach. Island Frydays, 2826 Vine St., Corryville, islandfrydays.com.
Sometimes you have days at work when you’re so busy you can barely get up to pee, let alone figure out how or what you’re going to feed yourself. Thankfully, the true angel humans at 53T Courier have been bringing lunch (and dinner) to downtowners (and CityBeaters) via bicycle in the rain, sleet, snow and heat and when they just can’t get up from their desks since 2014. Pronounced “fifty-three tee” — for the number of teeth on a road bike’s chain ring — the company, founded by Ian Bulling and Dave Adams, is rider-owned and operated and “comprised of experienced, dedicated cyclists who love what they do.” From 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Friday and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. on Saturday, these be-spoked saviors deliver food from an ever-growing list of local restaurants throughout downtown, OTR and Northern Kentucky, like Cheapside Café, The Gruff and Pho Lang Thang. They also perform other assorted bike messenger services like delivering parcels, papers and etc. Sure, the restaurant selection may be greater through conglomerates like Uber Eats or Grubhub, but Uber Eats doesn’t have Ian — or his giant backpack — hand delivering your lunch to you at your desk, still hot and intact (even if you get a Vietnamese drip coffee), while you’re trying to make a deadline. It is only a slight exaggeration to say some of us here might starve without him and 53T. 53T Courier, 53tcourier.com.
Don’t be dismayed if the line is out the door when you arrive at Maplewood Kitchen and Bar downtown. For one thing, it’s worth the wait, but just as importantly, they have a super-efficient operation that moves you along quickly. While you wait, you can ponder your many excellent choices — starting with cocktails. There’s the roasted tomatillo bloody mary (made with Tito’s vodka, house-roasted tomatillo mix and a super greens cold-pressed juice blend for #health), a cold-pressed juice mimosa and a cucumber sangria, made with Sauvignon Blanc, among other excellent options. And if you aren’t just drinking your breakfast/lunch/dinner, edible options range from fancy toasts to power bowls and a roasted rotisserie chicken. But the dish that will haunt your dreams is the lemon ricotta pancakes with seasonal fruit, berry compote and local syrup. This stack of two flapjacks has enough of a fan following that it found its way to the TODAY Show in September and into the mouths of Carson Daly and Al Roker. Maplewood also made Travel + Leisure’s list of the top 25 places to eat pancakes last year. So go for the pancakes, stay for the drinks and add a side of Daisy Field Farms bacon if you’re in an indulgent frame of mind. A second Maplewood location opened in Deerfield last year for double the fun. Maplewood Kitchen and Bar, 525 Race St., Downtown; 5065 Deerfield Blvd., Mason, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com.
If you’ve never had the pleasure of trying it, ceviche is raw seafood cured in citrus juice and spiced with exotic peppers. Angel Batista, co-owner of Maize and a native of Puerto Rico, says it should taste like the ocean — and that’s exactly how you’d describe his restaurant’s dish, constructed with a base of red snapper and shrimp. It is perfect. Crisp, bright, tangy, fresh. The fish are plump and plentiful and complemented by pops of diced mango and serrano pepper — tossed in after the acidity of the lime cures the seafood. Don’t let that juice at the bottom of your glass go to waste; it’s called leche de tigre, or “tiger milk,” which you can drink right out of the container. It’s considered an aphrodisiac, so make sure your date gets a good taste, too. The remainder of the dishes at Maize are excellent as well. The restaurant takes its name from a corn flour dating back some 10,000 years, which serves as the basis for the eatery’s arepas, cachapas and empanadas and acts as an access point for the rich world of Latin American cuisine. To that end, the menu is colorful and varied, with dishes from across the region that complement one another while retaining their traditional roots: Puerto Rican lechonchetta con yucca al mojo, Venezuelan pabellón criollo and Mexican elote topped with cotija cheese, queso fresco and cayenne. Maize OTR, 1438 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, maizeotr.com.
From the outside, Darou Salam may seem small — it is set back, nestled underneath trees and shares the same building as the Northside Tavern. You may even miss it at first glance. But although humble in appearance, this is Cincinnati’s best-kept secret for authentic African food. Darou Salam offers Senegalese cuisine ranging from lamb dibi, which is grilled lamb paired with an onion-mustard sauce, to firir, a fried whole tilapia (yes with the head — but don’t be scared, it’s tasty), and bissap sorrel, a famous Hibiscus juice and Senegalese favorite. Darou Salam, 4163 Hamilton Ave., Northside, 513-681-3663.
There’s a new pitmaster in Pendleton. And while the name of the barbecue joint may look like “luscious” — which isn’t a bad association — the restaurant is actually called Lucius Q (loo-shus q), a moniker taken from a Roman general with special ties to Cincinnati. The Roman association is pulled through in the branding, created by locals Keith Neltner and Tommy Sheehan: The restaurant logo is a Centurion riding a pig. But the Italian influence stops there. The menu is all about the meat; no pizza or pasta in sight — unless you count the macaroni and cheese waffle. Instead, it draws influence from regional barbecue specialties and the partners’ own backgrounds. Co-owner Aaron Sharpe, formerly of now-defunct, much-missed radio station WNKU, says they were inspired by the best regions in the country to make their Texas brisket, Carolina pulled pork and Memphis-style ribs with sausage from local Avril-Bleh. Everything is smoked in the smoker out back and the sauces — which range from Carolina-style Queen City Gold mustard sauce to Kansas City-style Luscious Lucius sweet and smoky sauce to the unique ‘Bama White mayonnaise-based sauce — are made in house. The only thing not made in house are the buns, which are sourced from Giminetti Baking Company in Walnut Hills. For vegetarians, there’s a mushroom sandwich with barbecue sauce and sides like coleslaw, grits and queso corn or the pie of the day. Drawing on Sharpe’s radio days, the restaurant also doubles as a live music venue. Lucius Q, 1131 Broadway St., Pendleton, luciusq.com.
Clifton’s Elephant Walk Injera & Curry House does double duty as both an Indian and Ethiopian restaurant. The double-sided menu features cuisine from both countries, which have somewhat similar flavor profiles. If you’ve never eaten Ethiopian food, it’s kind of like Indian — both countries offer stew-style dishes consisting of ingredients like chicken, lentils, cabbage and lamb, but Ethiopian dishes also rely heavily on beef, which you won’t see in Indian cuisine. Both also have their own special breads with which to scoop your food, but instead of naan, Ethiopian food is served with injera, a sourdough flatbread with a spongy texture and slightly tart taste that you will either love or really, really hate. And where Indian dishes rely heavily on curry for flavor, Ethiopian food gets its kick from a spicy berbere blend. The best part of the expansive offerings at Elephant Walk is that they allow for contrasting couples to order from whichever country they prefer. The restaurant also offers a genius daily lunch buffet with both styles of international eats for customers to mix, match and try a bit of both. Slap some saag on a plate with a little doro wat and see which you prefer. Other menu highlights include traditional Ethiopian coffee service, naan wraps and late-night wine and wing specials on Wednesdays (the restaurant is by the University of Cincinnati, after all #collegelife). Elephant Walk Injera & Curry House, 170 W. McMillan St., Clifton, elephantwalkcincy.com.
Brunch serves several functions in our society, foremost being a graceful means to justify a few drinks before noon. Now, there’s the food and fellowship appeal too, but you’re probably getting real sick of your spouse’s friends and hearing about their relationship drama. Luckily, drag queens have stolen the spotlight once again to save us from ourselves at Metropole’s Drag Brunch. Loud music and raucous applause will negate the need for small talk as drag queens dance and lip sync through their routines, so you can soak in all the energy and positivity these catty and fabulous queens exude. A bi-monthly event, registration fills up quickly; $35 will cover your brunch and mimosa, but be sure to bring plenty of singles to tip performers like Amaya Sexton, Jessica Dimon, Lexi Love, Sue Nami, Aaliyah Milian and Nichelle Kartier. Events have pleasantly punny names like “Spring Queening” and “Hallowqueen.” Don’t be surprised if this brunch leaves you hungry for more drag shows (and cocktails); just say yass, Queen City. Metropole, 609 Walnut St., Downtown, metropoleonwalnut.com.
Total Juice Plus has been macerating vegetables into drinkable health beverages for downtowners since 1997. The unassuming little bistro isn’t fancy, but go anytime around lunch and the line is almost out the door with office workers looking for a vitamin-infused pick-me-up. The fresh pressed/squeezed/smushed juices come in sizes from 12 to 32 ounces with any combination of carrot, beet, apple, pineapple, orange, watermelon, celery, cucumber, ginger and kale. Build your own juice or choose from one of their pre-selected blends. And any of you on that celery juice bandwagon — yes, we said celery — we know celery is a pain in the butt to juice at home, so let the friendly staff at Total Juice do it for you. They also have wheatgrass growing on the counter for shots. Outside of fresh juices, they also make smoothies from flash-frozen fruit (non-dairy by request) and you can opt to add boosters like bee pollen, ginseng, egg protein and brewers yeast. Basically, it’s a build-your-own health beverage. If you want to chew something, they also offer high-protein wraps and tons of vegetarian choices. It’s like a juice bar from before juice bars were a thing. Total Juice Plus, 631 Vine St., Downtown, totaljuicecincy.com.
While CityBeat’s official position on candy houses is to be wary, as it’s likely occupied by a witch hoping to lure little boys and girls into her oven, we had to make an exception for Doscher’s Candy Co.’s new digs. Fear not, there are no confirmed cannibalistic witches on the premises, just the nice folks that run Cincinnati’s oldest continuously operating candy company; and the house is not actually made of candy, but it sure smells like it since the scent of vanilla clings to their new base of operations in the Newtown farmhouse. Home of French Chew taffy bars, Doscher’s is also the oldest candy cane producer in the country, and one of only two companies that still makes them in the U.S. They begin churning out peppermint candy canes in the early summer to fill orders for the holiday season, as well as flavors that have year-round appeal like blueberry, green apple and the ever-popular birthday cake. Fans of Necco Candy Buttons can also thank Doscher’s for saving the sugary specks from extinction, as they acquired the candy after Necco went bankrupt last year. Want to see how the candy’s made? Doscher’s Candy factory tours are held Tuesdays and Thursdays, and after the tour you can visit their quaint retail shop. Doscher’s Candy Co., 6926 Main St., Newtown, doscherscandies.com.
Sold at a variety of retailers across the Greater Cincinnati area, Queen City Hemp has been leading the way of CBD products in Cincinnati. For those who have not heard about the growing trend of CBD oil, CBD stands for cannabidiol and is a product of cannabis. Yes, like marijuana. But CBD is labeled non-psychoactive because it does not contain the THC compound of cannabis. So, this is relevant because that means you can purchase it at (some) neighborhood vendors. According to CBD fans and proponents who use it as a health supplement, the oil has anti-inflammatory properties and can be used to treat everything from chronic pain to anxiety and seizures. There have even been some studies that suggest it slows the growth of cancer cells. And in addition to tinctures and salves, Queen City Hemp has started producing a CBD Seltzer. Although it may sound a bit like a bougier version of La Croix reserved for hipsters and hippies, it’s actually more akin to taking your morning vitamins than it is a vice. CBD Seltzer contains 5 milligrams of CBD per serving and comes in blood orange, passion fruit, guava and lemon lavender flavors. There’s no caffeine, no sugar, no sodium and no artificial flavors. You’ll find only four ingredients listed on the can: carbonated water, natural flavors, potassium sorbate (to preserve freshness) and hemp extract, the source of the CBD. You can find Queen City Hemp’s CBD Seltzer at Hemptations, health food stores like Clifton Natural Foods or Jungle Jim’s. Queen City Hemp, queencityhemp.com.
There’s that old saying, “I don’t care to belong to any club that will have me as a member.” The Rhined’s cheese club would make even Groucho Marx go back on his word. This cheese of the month club eliminates the need to leave your house to obtain coveted dairy deliciousness. Each month, a box of cheese is delivered to you (you can also head to The Rhined to pick it up, if you aren’t lazy) featuring three hand-picked selections from seasonal, special cheese wheels. It could be a hard cheese! A soft cheese! A blue cheese! A cow’s milk cheese! A sheep’s milk cheese! A goat’s milk cheese! Who knows? You won’t until you open it. Each shipment holds .75 pounds of cheese, plus tasting notes and pairing suggestions. The first box even includes a free special gift: A Boska cheese knife and a cheese tasting journal so you can write your cheese all sorts of secret love notes. Orders are available the first Wednesday of each month and start at $40 per month (more if you want that box delivered to your door). If you’re feeling extra indulgent, opt into the wine and cheese club where, you guessed it, you get a monthly box containing a curated and seasonal cheese and wine pairing. Impress your friends. Impress your fridge. And let cheesemonger Stephanie Webster and her team suprise your tastebuds each month with the gift of artisan cheese. You can also give it as a gift if you are a very, very nice person. The Rhined, 1737 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, therhined.com.
Well-hidden in Carthage, Cretan’s Chili Restaurant is an Edward-Hopper-esque landscape of red vinyl, faded linoleum and wood-paneling, serving Coke in Styrofoam cups and sandwich platters from a menu that’s essentially Arial font on laminated printer paper. George Kyrios and his sister Lilly have worked at Cretan’s since they were kids — their parents, Katina and John, founded the business in 1948. It was originally a candy store that happened to sell sandwiches and evolved into a chili parlor in the 1960s. George makes the chili daily from scratch — cut, ground and blended with spices according to his father’s top-secret recipe. No word on what those spices are, but there’s definitely a liberal dose of clove mixed into each batch, giving Cretan’s a kick. It’s thicker than some other local chilis, which makes their cheese coneys slightly more stable than those at name-brand chains. You get the standard dog, chili and cheese in a steamed white bun, with the option to order an extra side of cheese if you deem it necessary. The limited hours and cash-only economy make Cretan’s less accessible than some other 24-hour-style stops, but 70 years of history can’t be wrong. Cretan’s Chili Restaurant, 7039 Vine St., Carthage, 513-821-1203.
Cheese and potatoes are a classic pairing that’s pretty damn hard to screw up, but equally difficult to elevate to Michelin-star quality. Nicola’s, one of OTR’s most esteemed restaurants, does just that with their gnocchi. And while they don’t have a Michelin star, they do have four diamonds from AAA. The potato pasta is made in house daily and served to you smothered in a mouthwatering four-cheese fondue that perfectly balances the best rich, creamy and salty notes of flavor from the dairy wedges melted down to make this heavenly sauce. After adding chives and a charitable drizzling of truffle oil, this piping hot plate makes its way to your table, but before digging in, be sure to have your server grate a generous amount of parmesan on top to achieve maximum cheesy goodness. That may all sound heavy and overindulgent, but amazingly, this bowl of carb nirvana is as light as a cumulus cloud. One bite of this perfectly cooked melt-in-your-mouth pasta is enough to ensure there will be a second. And a third. Nicola’s Ristorante, 1420 Sycamore St, Over-the-Rhine, nicolasotr.com.
First off: This pick is not about Grippo’s barbecue chips, although Grippo’s barbecue chips are in fact delicious. They taste like a summer pool party, come in nostalgic 1960s packaging and have that tongue-coating tang of paprika, heat and MSG. But, if you want something less orange and non-GMO, Hen of the Woods’ Touch of Smoke-flavored kettle chips are possibly the perfect potato chip. Developed by chefs and made from scratch, each all-natural chip is sliced, sorted and seasoned by Hen of the Woods. Here, apple cider vinegar brings a bright acidic punch to a chip dusted with sea salt, leek, red bell pepper and some hickory smoke, which creates a sort of North Carolina backyard barbecue flavor sans any powder coating or food coloring — looks like a chip; tastes like a touch of smoke. Hen of the Woods chips are now carried in over 100 stores across five states and come in flavors other than Touch of Smoke — Buttermilk & Chive, the original Red Wine Vinegar, Chile Con Queso, Sea Salt, Everything — but why stray from the best? Hen of the Woods, henofthewoodsotr.com.
Sacred Beast is a modern diner-style destination in OTR with a solid menu of comfort-food dishes and Francophile bistro favorites, like matzah ball soup, a double-burger with American cheese and steak tartare with frites. But if you want to try a dish that straddles the best of both worlds and epitomizes the excellence of chef Jeremy Lieb’s motto — “Simple food. Taken seriously.” — try the five-egg omelet. It’s a classic preparation: the eggs are cooked slow and on a low heat to make them impossibly fluffy and delicious. This yellow bit o’ heaven — with a slightly wiggly center, an airy, soft texture and no burnt brown skin — comes filled with a ton of goat cheese and bright piquillo peppers and is served with a lightly dressed bibb salad. It’s a little slice of Saint-Germain on Vine Street that calls up the best of café society, especially when paired with an Aviation cocktail (gin, crème de violette, Luxardo maraschino and lemon). Or go full Lost Generation with a Hemingway Daiquiri and foie gras torchon, served with Blue Oven toast. Sacred Beast, 1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, sacredbeastdiner.com.
Finding affordable fresh fish in the Cincinnati area is somewhat difficult, especially if you don’t want to pay Whole Foods prices. Tucked next to the entrance to the Florence Mall, Afishionados opened in November after relocating from Friendly Market. Alongside bakery Memorie Makers and olive oil company Kentucky Olive, the three businesses operate as Olde Kentucky Market. Afishionados fishmonger/co-owner John LaFontaine, aka Captain John, cut his teeth working for high-end fish market Keegan’s before opening Afishionados in 2014. In the new space, Captain John has expanded the business into more of a casual restaurant, replete with a dining room to eat cooked Scottish salmon, bowls of chowda and a cod sandwich. He coats the cod with panko and fries it until it’s extra crispy. Cod can be a boring, flavorless fish, but his exceeds expectations. Priced at only $9 — it comes with a side — it’s one of the best things on the menu. Afishionados, 2164 Florence Mall, Florence, a-fish-ionados.com.