1420 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine
Nicolas had fallen off my radar, but news of a recently hired executive chef gave me good reason to revisit the fine Italian restaurant. It has been at the same downtown/Over-the-Rhine location for 22 years, making owners Nicola (Nick) and Maureen Pietoso true pioneers in the areas eventual renaissance. In June, executive chef Jack Hemmer came on board. He had cooked at Nicolas a few years ago and left for other local kitchens, including a stint as executive chef at Mercer OTR when it first opened.
He and his team retained some fan-favorite menu items that he said absolutely deserve keeping, such as a couple of pastas tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce and four-cheese gnocchi along with a goat cheese salad. And since June, Hemmer has developed several intriguing appetizers, pastas and entrées. He said that on the fall menu he especially recommends the duck leg and octopus starters; tortelloni pasta with a mélange of ingredients that balance savory, sweet, spice and acidity; and a pan-seared branzino entrée.
We took our servers recommendation and split a couple orders of gnocchi ($18-$28) as an intermediate course. We agreed that the dish had been over-salted, which bothered some of us (including me) more than others. After more wine and waiting, our main dinner arrived. Several of my companions scarfed up more pasta, from the Bolognese ($15-$25) to risotto Milanese ($18-$28), while two of us went with fish entrées. Between the branzino ($34; my choice) and my friends Atlantic sole ($34), I preferred the latter. The fish was tender and flaky, and I liked the preparation with sautéed cauliflower, Marcona almonds and wine-soaked raisins. (Pama Mitchell)
Photo: Hailey Bollinger