Rare indeed that a feature documentary takes as its focus the life, times and experiences of a critical force, especially within the restaurant world, but Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold does not limit himself to mere discussions about food, so why should a film about him do so? Documentarian Laura Gabbert (the curiously engaging No Impact Man: The Documentary, about a family attempting to live a year with no net environmental impact) creates in City of Gold an odyssey of modern culture with Gold as the quintessential guide through this epic tale. (Opens Friday at Mariemont Theatre for one week only) (R) Not screened in time for review
