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Cincinnati boasts more than its fair share of choices for breakfast. Whether it's an excuse for a power business meeting or a hangover cure, local breakfast choices range from greasy spoons and quaint bakeries to national chains. We've picked three of our favorites to recommend.
Inn the Wood
For nearly 20 years this popular restaurant at the corner of Calhoun and Hartshorn has poured a river of coffee for throngs of bleary-eyed college students, university faculty, Clifton families and downtown commuters.
On a late Sunday morning, both dining rooms and the small counter are humming at a muted din. The first-level dining room is the smoking section, and this morning it's at full-on smoke with animated Bearcats fans rehashing last night's game. (On one visit, as I glanced into the kitchen, even the cook was smoking.)
The second level (non-smoking) is a bit more subdued, with a couple of after-church families and several solo diners. The interior design looks as if my great-aunt Ruth decorated it before she passed away ... 18 years ago.
Antique hutches and sideboards hold dried (as in fire hazard) flower arrangements and dusty, woodland-themed knick-knacks such as duck decoys, bird's nests and deer. A few strands of Christmas lights and some live hanging plants add a bit of dorm-room feel to the woodland theme. On a slightly hung-over Sunday morning, who cares?
People flock here for the great cheap breakfasts. The House Special — a skillet of potatoes, sautéed onion, green peppers, tomatoes, cheese and two eggs of your choice is the biggest seller and very smartly offered in sizes (small: $3.95, medium: $4.95 and large: $5.95). The small size with juice and coffee is enough for me; my boyfriend always orders the large.
My other favorite breakfast is the Potato Crisp ($5.95 or a half-portion for $3.95) — sort of a potato omelet of shredded potatoes folded with cheese, onion, sour cream and bacon bits (optional). Even the three-egg omelets are generous with filling: On this day I order the vegetable omelet, bursting with wilted spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, onions, green pepper and bits of cauliflower.
Other house specialties include Corned Beef Hash and Eggs ($3.95), Steak and Eggs (6.95), Biscuits and Sausage Gravy ($3.95), thick cut, cinnamon-flavored French Toast ($3.95), as well as typical breakfast fare such as pancakes and Belgian waffles. Monday-Friday, a "Quick and Easy" menu of six items is offered (all $2.59) 7-11 a.m. 277 Calhoun St., Clifton. 513-221-3044.
Wildflour Bakery
Each time I wander through the side door of Wildflour Bakery in Covington, I feel as if I've come to visit a friend's eccentric aunt — quirky, mismatched cloth napkins and mugs, wonderful aromas and a big smile from behind the glass counter full of carbo confections. Glass jars full of dark coffee beans with exotic and seductive names are nestled in the windows of the small room of a restored town home. Baking is done on site, and we could see additional staff bustling in the kitchen beyond the counter.
On this particular day, my friend and I peered through the glass at an assortment of bagels, cinnamon rolls reminiscent of beehives, gooey pecan rolls, blueberry banana turnovers, ginger banana chocolate chip muffins and chocolate chip, apricot or cheese scones. The dilemma: What do we do without?
The light and airy dough of the Cinnamon Roll ($1.75) belied the substantial presence of the coiled beauty. The cinnamon flavor was light, allowing a focus on the texture of the dough. The light powdered sugar glaze set this classic off without making it gummy or overly sweet. My friend chose the Cheese Scone ($1) and needed a little coaxing to share. The mild and buttery dough surrounded the sweetened cream cheese. Any scone aficionado would enjoy the texture and crumb of this variation.
We each selected items we "needed" to take home (apparently, a very common need). The subtle ginger flavor of the Ginger Banana Chocolate Chip Muffin ($1.50) enhanced the moist muffin, full of bits of banana and soft chocolate chips. In complete contrast, the Tomato Parmesan Bagel ($1) was a spicy number. The bagel had chewy but not stiff crust and a tender center, just the way I like them. Topped with sliced fresh tomatoes and dusted with grated Parmesan and red pepper flakes, it was a little too spicy on its own, but offered a great excuse for slathering on a layer of cream cheese.
Wildflour's popular Sunday Brunch features items such as Huevos Rancheros ($7.50), quiches ($6) and Shrimp and Mushroom Crepes ($10.50).
The coffee is roasted daily at Seven Hills Coffee Company in Montgomery. There are also selections of herbal teas, juices, lattes and more. Wildflour is more than a bakery or a coffee shop, and a little less than a full restaurant. That makes it a good choice. 308 Greenup St., Covington. 859-581-1000. Cash or checks only.
Price Hill Chili
On Sunday morning in Cincinnati's West side, two things are certain: The church parking lots are full, and so are the skillets at Price Hill Chili.
The family restaurant, run by Sam Beltsos and his three sons, is truly a West side tradition, and has been for multiple generations. Chili and beer pack 'em in on Friday nights after Elder football games, but the best breakfast west of Vine Street has folks standing in line at the door on Sunday mornings.
The trick is to skip mass entirely (I know, kind of crazy) and get there before 9:30 when families start to pour in and fill the place to the gills. Even at this early hour, the clean-cut servers (mostly sleepy high school girls) and busboys (equally sleepy high school boys) are ready for the onslaught of hungry families. Folks are hustled into a booth or a table in one of the dining rooms, or belly right up to the counter, and the friendly routine begins.
"Do you need to see a menu?" is the first question from our server, not an unusual one, since most folks know exactly what they want before their butts hit the booth. We pick from our favorites: a gooey Cheese & Mushroom Omelet ($4) served up with salty home fries and an English Muffin ($1.20). The Crisp Bacon and Two Eggs over medium ($3.10), plus a short stack of three Buttermilk Pancakes ($2.90), and a cup of PHC's homemade sausage Gravy and One Biscuit ($2.60), fulfill our carb cravings.
By 10 a.m., a line forms at the door. Folks are greeting their neighbors and sipping coffee while the busboys whisk away dirty dishes and wipe down tables. The counter stools, hustle and banter of the staff, and the cheap but hearty dishes give this diner its authenticity. The friendly, neighborhood service adds to the true meaning of "comfort food." 4920 Glenway Ave., West Price Hill. 513-471-9507. Cash or checks only.
