Opened in 1982 by Sylvia Krull, a flamboyant Mexican-American ex-stripper known for her snake-charming abilities, Sylvia's Mexican Restaurant enjoyed the next several years as a popular hang-out for local Latinos and gringos who appreciated authentic, inexpensive Mexican food. However, good, cheap eats were not the only reasons people flocked to Sylvia's, and by 1990 the City of Newport closed the restaurant down for a variety of nefarious activities in the back rooms and basement.
After five years in prison, Sylvia reopened her restaurant, but her tarnished reputation prevented it from attaining even a taste of its former success. Now retired and caring for great-grandchildren, Sylvia recently turned over the management of the restaurant to Mark and Gwen King, a couple with varied business backgrounds including restaurants and catering. Keeping Sylvia's original recipes, the couple cleaned house and started over, determined to build a positive relationship with the community.
The Scene
A fun and funky dive filled with a rainbow of plastic flowers, Mexican blankets, piñatas and mismatched furniture, Sylvia's reminds me of several family-owned, tiny taquerios I've visited in Mexico. Don't be intimidated by bars on the windows: They aren't there to keep neighborhood out. In rowdier days when Sylvia hosted crowded Latin dances, the bars kept the overly drunk from falling out.
Snapshots of customers line the walls; a life-size cardboard cut-out of Elvira invites you to the back room where you can kick back with a Tecate beer and watch Spanish soap operas or soccer. As in most family-owned restaurants, Gwen and Mark wear most of the sombreros: host, server, bartender, cook.
The Scoop
Mark makes several trips a week to Findlay Market to buy all the produce for the menu and to a farm in Brookville monthly to hand-select a cow for its place on this beef-heavy menu. Indeed, I could taste the freshness of the salsas that arrive at each table while you peruse the menu. I also ordered some Guacamole ($4) from the list of appetizers: a small plate of crisp, shredded lettuce topped with a simple mash of avocado, onions, tomato and lime was a refreshing accompaniment to the chips and salsas. The only small detraction was the ratio of onions to avocado: For the price and amount served, I prefer less onion and more avocado.
My son and I opted for full dinners with rice and beans, although there is plenty to choose à la carte or from the combination menu. I was concerned at first when I could only find one vegetarian choice, but Gwen assured me many of the dishes could be made to my preference and most sauces are completely meat-free. I chose the Chile Relleno ($7.25), a stuffed poblano pepper (mild but piquant) covered in the house ranchero sauce; while my teen-ager ordered the Beef Burrito ($6.95), a flour tortilla stuffed with beef tips and enchilada salsa. Both dinners arrived quickly on warm oval platters and, while not large portions, were filling and good. The refried beans tasted like they were made that morning instead of the insipid, canned mush served in Tex-Mex chains. The rice was on the dry side, as it should be to sop up cheese and sauces.
The Sizzle
On Sundays Mark and Gwen (who is Creole) like to mix it up by steaming pots of crawfish, serving them with potatoes and an ear of fresh corn. Never had crawfish? They'll show you how to peel it and suck out the innards.
Go: 5 E. Seventh St. Newport, Ky.
Call: 859-431-8110
Hours: Lunch: MondaySaturday Noon2 p.m.; Dinner: MondayThursday 510, Friday-Saturday 5Midnight. Open Sunday 510 p.m.
Prices: Inexpensive to Reasonable
Payment: Major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Red Meat: Lots of beef and chicken on this menu, but the kitchen will prepare many items vegetarian upon request. No vegan dishes.
