That's Soooo Cincinnati

Ryan Greis

For a town whose locals pride themselves as ardent beer-drinkers, it had been nothing short of embarrassing that several of Cincinnati's famous brews were owned by a Cleveland-based company and brewed in Maryland. In fact, the only locally owned and produced beer were micobrews.

That changed last month, at least partially. Christian Moerlein, one of the popular brands founded in Cincinnati by its namesake and once made by Cincinnati's Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing Co., for the last five years had been produced by Synder International Brewing Group out of Cleveland. But local businessman Gregory Hardman recently announced that he'd purchased the rights to the Moerlein brand, which at least gives cause to recall the rich brewing history this town has known.

Cincinnati had been considered the brewing capital of the country at the turn of the 20th century, before Prohibition and the rise of national brands. Beers like Hudepohl, Crown, Lafayette, Mohawk, Jackson, Klotter, Bellevue, Burger and Little Kings all were brewed in town, mostly in Over-the-Rhine. Today, only Moerlein, Burger, Hudepohl (i.e. Hudy) and Little Kings are still made, but none locally. Even the former Hudepohl-Schoenling brewery near Central Parkway churns out Boston's well-known Sam Adams brands.

(See Tapping City Pride, issue of June 4-10, 2003, for a good primer on Cincinnati's brewing history and recent changes.)

Hardman's business move marks the first good news the local brewing industry has seen in years. Christian Moerlein, an award-winning "craft" beer, at least is owned locally with the possibility it could be once again brewed here.

Drinking local beer that was owned in Cleveland definitely left a skunky taste in people's mouths. Bringing a tiny piece of our rich history back home ... that's soooo Cincinnati.