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10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill Photo: Provided by 3CDC

While I have no stats to back it up, there’s something about tiki glasses that just makes drinks taste better.

When I found out that the team behind Onolicious was opening 10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill right next to Ziegler Pool, my interest was instantly piqued. A deep, dark part of me gets weak in the knees for mini cocktail umbrellas. I needed to see this establishment billing itself as a mini island escape for myself.

It’s a sluggish, post-Fourth of July weekend Monday, with storms on the horizon and no forthcoming vacation days marked on my calendar. I decided to treat myself to a getaway. Maybe with a tiki drink in my system, the holiday doesn’t have to be over.

When I walk in, I’m greeted with the promised island theme. The space is filled with netting, floral curtains and lanterns. The ukulele-heavy playlist is complemented by the sounds of kiddos splashing and lifeguard whistles in the pool right outside.

At my table, I’m prompted to order via QR code. Scrolling through the menu, I have to individually click on each food or drink item in order to see exactly what it is. With a pretty robust drink menu — my tiki drink fervor that made me want to look at everything  — I find it a little annoying to have to keep toggling between menu options on my phone. 

What’s more, the online platform has a message stating that QR code ordering isn’t currently available at the time, despite signs posted around the restaurant saying otherwise. However, the bartender/server doesn’t leave me hanging, and as soon as I let them know, they promptly take care of my order and check in consistently throughout my visit.

I opt for a Painkiller ($13), one of my favorite cocktails that just so happens to come in a tiki glass (plus it’s a Monday, so there is much pain to kill). And not only does it arrive in a tiki glass – it also comes topped off with a small umbrella (swoon). I love the cocktail’s housemade coconut cream, yet it manages to lean more into the citrusy side with the pineapple and orange juice, which I gladly welcome.

A Painkiller cocktail from 10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill Photo: Nadya Ellerhorst

For starters, I opt for the Wahine Salad ($8) (the ciabatta croutons caught my eye) and Kahalu’u Calamari ($14). The salad is pretty straightforward content-wise, but the miso sesame vinaigrette actually ended up sort of stealing my heart. It has a subtle miso flavor with the slightest kick. I also love the extra bite from the salad’s sweet chili cucumber slices. 

While the calamari came out lukewarm, I love the light, airy mochiko flour batter – and the little mound of fried sesame noodles that accompany the dish. The calamari comes tossed in a delicious “secret sauce” that I’d be very interested in learning more about. But the bowl of strong garlic sauce it’s served with sort of neutralizes all of the flavors of the calamari, and I prefer it without it.

As I perused the menu for entrees, I noted vegetarian alternatives for the Kanaka BBQ Burger and the Local Guido sandwich, as well as a la carte meats. I went for the Kahuku Shrimp Sando ($19 for a full sandwich and side of fries), a hearty merging of mochiko flour-battered shrimp, garlic butter, smoked gouda, miso sesame slaw and sriracha mayo on a Sixteen Bricks ciabatta bun. 

I think my jaw drops slightly when I’m brought the massive sandwich, whose fresh bread is soaking up the small pool of garlic butter forming on the plate. To make a little room on the platter, I start by nibbling at the house fries and spicy ketchup — both delicious. 

The flavor combination of the sandwich is excellent — a little smokiness from the cheese, a little bite from the slaw, a little kick from the mayo. While the shrimp could have used a little more seasoning love, the delicious mochiko flour helps the sandwich steer clear of being too heavy.

Though thoroughly stuffed to the gills, tiki drink drained, and starting to undergo the drowsy effects of having consumed so much butter, I’m somehow still feeling up to demolishing a shaved ice. Based on the bartender’s recommendation, I get half-mango syrup, half-strawberry syrup topped with a “snow cap” (ie, drizzled with condensed milk) ($7).

Maybe it’s illogical to get more fatty foods when I’m already full with all that glorious butter, but the die has been cast, and my shaved ice is melting. I dig in, and the first thing I notice is how “real” the syrup tastes. The strawberry syrup, in particular, is a deep, blood red instead of the ubiquitous stoplight color you see in your average snow cone, and it isn’t sickly sweet — it’s a great, refreshing ending to the meal, made just a little richer with the creamy condensed milk.

Had it not been a Monday, I definitely would have opted for more tiki drinks, and before the summer ends, I can see myself coming back to 10th Island to try a few others that caught my eye (tiki glass-based or otherwise). 

Is it a true getaway? Not necessarily — while it has thematic decor and a curated menu, you won’t forget the city waiting right outside the door. But 10th Island is something new and different from the more pub grub-y offerings on the streets adjacent, and it owns its theme. Perhaps that’s a getaway enough in these Cincinnati summer months. 

10th Island Tiki Bar and Grill, 213 Woodward St., Over-the-Rhine. More info: 10thislandtiki.com.

This story is featured in CityBeat’s July 23 print edition.

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