Sports bars are not a new concept to Cincinnati. Neither are innovative eateries with modern décor and creative flavor combinations. These concepts aren’t often seen together, but downtown’s newly-opened Vintage on Race dares to combine the two, with bold and delicious results.
Located in the Foundry building in the heart of downtown and a block away from Fountain Square, Vintage on Race catches your attention with a large, well-lit “V” sign, beckoning hungry visitors like a lighthouse. You enter the restaurant through a large, winding ramp leading to the host’s stand. The inside is spacious, airy and industrial with high ceilings and two bars, one at the very back and one toward the front, wrapping around a large cabinet and facing a stage. Except for a huge flat-screen TV and a wall devoted to memorabilia of Cincinnati’s sports teams, Vintage on Race looks like the bar of an upscale hotel.
Vintage on Race’s menus are a balance of innovative and unexpected flavors and combinations such as the creamy gochujang grits (which blends a Korean fermented soybean-based condiment and a Southern classic), balanced with old favorites such as biscuits and gravy or the classic Caesar salad. Vintage on Race adheres to the trappings of a sports bar and grill while elevating the classics and introducing new flavors. Both adventurous and cautious eaters will find something to enjoy at Vintage on Race.
There are three menus: Dinner, brunch and drinks. The drinks menu is laid out as expected; there are categories for beer, wine, cocktails and happy hour specials. (There is also a limited but intriguing zero-proof section, for the designated drivers and those who don’t drink.) The brunch menu features cocktails, lunch items, game day items (a section focused on nachos and wings), bread-based items and sweets, eggs and sides that are both breakfast- and lunch-oriented. The dinner menu is divided into five categories: Shareables, greens, handhelds, plates and sides.
When I first visited Vintage on Race, I popped in to get an order to-go. While I waited I had a glass of Luccio Moscato D’Asti ($13 for a glass, $52 for a bottle). The wine was sweet, fruity and light.
To start, I had a citrus kale salad ($14), which includes kale, citrus dressing, cashews, shaved parmesan, dried cherries and oranges. I’ve never liked kale, but I like citrus and parmesan, and the combination of sweet and savory ingredients intrigued me. That combination was almost excellent but came just shy of hitting the mark. The oranges and dried cherries, however, were by far the highlight of the salad. The oranges were juicy, and the cherries were rich and flavorful.
I also had a side of the mac and cheese ($10). While so much of Vintage on Race’s menu is comprised of experimental flavor combinations, chef Robert Grace stuck with the basics with the mac and cheese — it was simple, creamy and tangy. The only twist was the use of shells instead of elbow macaroni, cavatappi and other common pasta shapes. If you’ve ever had Velveeta Shells and Cheese, this is sort of an elevated version of that.
The highlight of this visit, and perhaps of Vintage’s entire menu, was the whipped feta with sriracha honey, toasted naan and herbs ($16). Alternating between sweet, tangy and spicy, the whipped feta perfectly complemented the crunchy, crispy naan. I cannot overstate how delicious the whipped feta is. The whipped feta is in the “shareables” category, but trust me, you’re going to want to keep it all to yourself. The whipped feta alone is reason enough to visit Vintage on Race.
One cold December Saturday, I treated myself to Vintage on Race’s brunch. The restaurant was definitely in the Christmas spirit, with trees and tinsel all around and modern Christmas songs playing full-blast on the speakers. The space was surprisingly empty for a Saturday, although people filtered in after me; some of my fellow diners were SantaCon attendees in full SantaCon regalia, adding to the Christmas spirit. The choice was difficult, as the brunch menu is filled with intriguing options, but I went with sangria, the classic benedict, and my favorite, the whipped feta. The sangria ($12) is a mix of red wine, pineapple, vanilla, a citrus blend and prosecco, and the citrus blend is the dominant flavor. The classic benedict dish ($14) was a delicious, simple take on a breakfast favorite, with eggs covered in a creamy hollandaise sauce atop an English muffin. (The classic benedict comes with Canadian bacon, but I had the dish without it.) The highlight was the hangover hash, a creamy, gooey, peppery ball of potatoes and cheese that would be sure to ease even the most brutal hangover.
For my third visit, I had a quick lunch at the bar. I started off with the Velvet Elvis ($15), a seasonal cocktail comprised of Bulleit bourbon, strawberry, cinnamon, ginger and a lemon wedge that I picked as much for the name as for the flavors. (I’ve always been an Elvis fan.) The predominant flavors were strawberry and bourbon.
To eat, I had the creamy gochujang grits ($7). Before I tried the gochujang grits, I wondered what had inspired the chef to combine Korean and Southern flavors. After trying the savory, creamy and subtly spicy dish, all I wanted to know was why nobody had thought of that sooner.
While Vintage has varied and interesting offerings in all meals, the sides and shareables are where the menu really shines. Whether you’re looking for something familiar, an introduction to new flavors, or a gathering place for good vibes, Vintage on Race has you covered.
Vintage on Race is currently open from 11 a.m. to midnight on Monday through Friday and from 10 a.m. to midnight on Saturday and Sunday.
Vintage on Race, 500 Race St., Downtown. More info: vintageonrace.com.
This story is featured in CityBeat’s Jan. 8 print edition.
This article appears in Dec 11-24, 2024.