I’ve always loved dives and diners. I learned the characteristics of a dive from my friends Joyce Miller and Mike Boylan, authors of Diving Out. Floyd’s of Cincinnati Inc. fits the classic definition: “Where time seems to have slowed up a bit, food is cheap, talk is easy, and where ambiance is developed over years.” Floyd’s most joyous connection to a great dive is that the food is truly home cooking (Lebanon and Turkey) with a well-known signature dish in a clean, unpretentious setting.
Floyd’s unobtrusive storefront presence on Calhoun draws UC faculty, students, Cliftonites of all stripes and loyal fans for a dose of comfort food. Opened in 1991, Reine and Emile Salti’s son-in-law named the venture Floyd’s as a compliment to Clyde’s of Washington, D.C., which the Saltis enjoyed. Funny that a yuppie hangout (Oops! Hippies hung out there, too) famous for chili should help give birth to one of Cincinnati’s finest ethnic restaurants.
In case you’re new to town or never venture near the UC campus, Floyd’s is famous for the best spit-roasted chicken in the area. The Saltis are very particular about the quality of chicken they roast on a daily basis. The blend of herbs and spices brings out the best of the tender and juicy meat that may be ordered whole, as a half chicken, as a sandwich or included in several of the daily specials.
I must warn you that if you want chicken for an evening meal, whether it’s for carry out or to be eaten in there, call by lunch time to reserve it. It’s not uncommon for all the chicken to be gone by shortly after 6 p.m.
In the rush and flurry of December, it was a welcome respite for a satisfying meal between sets of meetings. We ordered from the plentiful list of Mediterranean side dishes. The Baba Ganouje Dip ($3.25) had a deep, earthy tang to the creamy, smoky garlic/eggplant spread, presented with a puddle of good olive oil and a dusting of paprika. The pale yellow Hommos Tihini Dip ($2.75) was memorable: rich, smooth and light with a lovely lemon undercurrent and dressed with olive oil and paprika.
Of note is the soft freshness of the pita. Emile explained that he has his baker freeze the pita as soon as it comes out of the oven. He picks up bags of frozen pita and thaws what is needed for the day, providing his diners with the freshest pita I’ve eaten outside those I’ve made in my own kitchen.
The Lentil Soup ($2 for a cup/$3 for a bowl) is offered daily along with other specialties. Thick and very hot, the pale gold/green soup was bland, calling for more zest. I later observed another patron squeeze a lemon slice into her soup and felt that would have added what was missing. The fresh, crisp and simple salad that came with the evening special included chopped romaine, tomatoes, onions and cucumbers tossed with feta crumbles, oregano, salt and pepper with oil and vinegar.
We ordered a Floyd’s Special ($9.50), which allows a choice of two Mediterranean side dishes with the spit-roasted half chicken and pita. From the generous list we selected Basmati Rice, perfectly done fragrant grains, and Lima Beans, a fabulous sauce of garlic, lemon and whole pale beans with parsley. The star among the many plates was the chicken, which was tender, moist and flavorful with lemon, pepper and an herb mix embedded into the crisp crust. Chunks of tender lamb and tomatoes simmered with crunchy onion slices were the savory ingredients of the day’s special, Lamb Sauté ($10.95). I got the last portion and felt fortunate to enjoy Reine’s off-the-menu composite.
No visit to Floyd’s is complete without sampling the traditional Middle Eastern pastries. The Baklava ($1.25) layers crushed walnuts between honey and rich and buttery filo pastry, while the Bird’s Nest ($1.80) tucks whole pistachios amid sheets of filo and honey.
When you crave home cooking but lack the time or skill to whip it up yourself on these cold winter nights, put Floyd’s on the top of the list to visit. But be sure to call first, because family is as important as fresh ingredients. They’re closed Saturday and Sunday, for three weeks in August/ September to visit family in Greece, and usually for about a week at Thanksgiving and Christmas/New Year’s. Work your schedule to fit Floyd’s — it’s worth the trip. ©
Floyd’s
Go: 129 Calhoun St., Clifton
Call: 221-2434
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.2:30 p.m.
Friday 11 a.m.2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Monday-Thursday 5-9 p.m.
Friday 510 p.m.
Prices: Inexpensive to reasonable
Payment: Cash and checks
Vegetarian Friendliness: Many selections available
Parking: Meters on Calhoun or Ohio; after 5 p.m. in the church parking lot on Ohio.
This article appears in Jan 5-11, 2000.