A quick heads-up before we get started. Think of this as less of a restaurant review and more of a public service announcement: People of Cincinnati, if you’re looking for a great meal, get thee to Tink’s Café in Clifton’s Gaslight District, pronto.
If you already know Tink’s and are familiar with its inventive cuisine, sophisticated yet approachable atmosphere and extensive wine list, flip the page; there’s not much news here.
But if you don’t know Tink’s (and I suspect that there are some among you — an informal poll among a handful of relatively sophisticated acquaintances turned up mostly blank stares), better read on: You’re missing out on something special.
First, a little background. Tink’s is owned by the same team (Elliot Jablonsky and Jill Hanto) that owns the Vineyard in Hyde Park and the Latin Quarter in Mariemont; they bought Tink’s from its original owner. If you’re not into the local food scene, all you need to take away here is that you’re in the hands of some real restaurant pros. The quirky name? Tink’s is named after a canine friend of the original owner.
Tink’s location (off Ludlow Avenue, by my judgment one of the most charming and vital corners of Cincinnati with its many restaurants and shops and art house cinema), ambience (very contemporary with big windows, paintings on the walls and soft lighting) and passionately crafted food, all conspire to transport diners out of the realm of the everyday.
For Tink’s newbies, the initiation script goes approximately like this: “Wow, I feel like I’m somewhere else, definitely not Cincinnati,” followed by “How come I’ve never heard of this place?” then “I’m definitely coming back!” On Mondays and Thursdays, Tink’s offers live music; on a recent Monday, a string of listeners lined up at the bar to hear Django Reinhardt-inspired Jazz at perfect volume, not enough to interrupt dinner conversation.
We started with the excellent Crab Cakes ($9). Served over field greens and fresh chow mein noodles with a delicate sweet Thai chili sauce, they were perfectly moist on the inside and pan-fried and crispy on the outside. The Polenta Napoleon ($8.75) also got high marks. Roasted bell peppers, zucchini and shiitake mushrooms were layered on triangles of deep-fried polenta. A delightfully musky French cheese, Fromager d’Affinois, melted on the polenta added depth and complexity of flavor, while drizzled parsley oil provided a delicate finish. One quibble: Although the centers of the polenta triangles were creamy and delicious, deep-frying rendered the edges too crispy and greasy, destroying the delicate flavor of the polenta. Both are available as entrées.
Although the garnishes on the Arugula Salad ($7.95) — goat cheese, exceptional Broadbent bacon from Cadiz, Ky., and cubes of roasted beets and celery root — complemented each other well, the salad would have been much more successful had the arugula been fresh and properly peppery, instead of effete and past its prime.
The Mushroom Ravioli ($16.50) entrée was a standout. Filled with wild mushrooms, fresh mozzarella and ricotta, and finished in a delicate sauce of garlic, chicken broth and cream, the ravioli were topped with strips of Tasso ham (this lean tasty stuff brings ham to a new level; it’s a Louisiana specialty made from pork shoulder marinated in brine, then coated with spices and slow smoked). The Pan Seared Salmon ($17.25) was rich and satisfying, with a chive beurre blanc sauce flavored with shiitake mushrooms and served with roasted brussels sprouts and Yukon potatoes.
Somehow, we found room for dessert. Although grandiosely named, the Latte Napoleon ($7.50) was essentially an ice-cream sandwich, with coffee-cinnamon ice cream between chewy ginger spice cookies. Drizzled with caramel sauce, it was a decadent treat. The Spring Bread Pudding ($7.50), cinnamon sweet dough and banana bread with white chocolate, spiced apples, golden raisins, served warm with caramel sauce, was thoroughly satisfying, although it was definitely more fall than spring.
The wine list is extensive and varied, with two dozen wines available by the glass. Tink’s is also open for lunch, offering an array of sandwiches and entrées, and is rumored to serve an excellent Sunday brunch. For anti-carb aficionados, the menu has an Atkins Diet section.
Dinner at Tink’s is full of great little touches. The attention to detail and the quality in all the right places (I keep thinking of that scrumptious Tasso ham) reveal a chef who is clearly in love with food. Head to Tink’s for a special night out, a romantic dinner or just because you want to eat. You’ll definitely feel like you got away, without having to go anywhere. ©
Tink’s
Go: 3410 Telford Ave., Clifton
Call: 513-961-6500
Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner: 5-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; Brunch: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Moderate
Payment: Major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Polenta Napoleon, Pan-Seared Salmon, Pappardelle
Accessibility: Handicap accessible
Grade: A-
This article appears in Mar 17-23, 2004.
