I’ve enjoyed seeing some of the remaining Big Pig Gig porkers around town, but BBQ Revue’s pig looks like Big Boy’s own rotund porcine. Quite appropriate, too, in that BBQ Revue is located in the former Frisch’s location next to Madison Bowl in Madisonville.
BBQ Revue’s original big pig has always brought a smile to my face and caused my mouth to water, craving the delectable barbecue that’s been available only for take-out in Madisonville for the last 10 years. The old location was pretty bare and rustic, but the lines of aficionados and the aroma from the smoker lured barbecue mavens from all parts of town. The spacious conversion of the family restaurant was a pleasant surprise: basic comfort for our trays packed with prospectively untidy meals.
The massive steel smoker occupies a prominent space in the rear of the restaurant, visible from the parking lot. The meats are coated with a Southern dry rub before basking in the smoker. The Beef Brisket ($8.95 per pound) is cured in the smoker for 12 hours, emerging with an earthy beef flavor, with the meat falling into shreds capable of soaking up the deep, hearty thick sauce that rates as my current favorite.
While we pondered the possibilities at the front counter, we were also able to glimpse the work area behind the counter and into the kitchen, a space that seemed as large as the entire Madisonville site. The cheerful young staff loaded our tray with disposable plates laden with juicy, mahogany brown chicken, chunky, meaty ribs and the all-important cups of the famous barbecue sauce among the sides.
Buffered with a copious supply of paper napkins, we were ready to dig in to the messy delight of good barbecue.
The main attraction has always been the ribs, and it’s no wonder. The Half Slab ($8.25) filled the majority of the plate. Vegetarians, beware! The art of gnawing a rib bone to gain the last scrap of meat, regardless as to whether it is tender or crusty, is the closest many come to carnivorous harm. Be sure to ask for a rib before reaching towards another’s plate or expect to pay the consequences. The meat was so tender, it was hard to determine if it fell from the bones, or if the bones lost hold of the meat. Moist and savory, the pork married well with the sauce.
The Half Chicken ($3.75) was astounding in both color and juiciness. The dry rub was a rich blend of herbs and spices that appeared to have stained the meat as well as enhancing the succulent flavor. The addition of a sloppy spoonful of sauce allowed for a heightened smokiness with a thick kick. It’s difficult to resolve whether it’s the dry rub or the barbecue sauce, but the hickory flavors merge with a good undercurrent of peppery bite, and the pleasing, full texture of the sauce ignites the taste buds, lingers on the lips and satisfies the soul.
We tried several side dishes and favored a few. I like baked beans to emerge from a long bake with a dark, rich flavor, a good texture and a thick sauce that has a bit of tang to the sweetness. BBQ Revue has mastered that well at a modest price (all sides come either small for $1.25 or large for $2.50). I also enjoyed the crisp and spicy Coleslaw, which caused a refreshing palate jolt between bites of slathered meat. I was less enamored with the Macaroni and Cheese, which had a good cheesy sauce mixed with soft, gooey pasta. The Corn Bread ($.40 each) was moist and sweet with some crunchiness to the crust, but a bit more like cake than what I was familiar with in growing up in Virginia. Potato salad and green beans are also available.
BBQ Revue wisely chooses not to dabble with extensive dessert options, allowing diners to round out their calorie needs from other sources. (It’s convenient that at least three hometown ice cream parlors are within a five-minute drive.) If you feel compelled to eat your sugar products on site, you can select a Brownie from their kitchen ($.50 each) or a slice of purchased pie.
We witnessed a steady stream of friends, neighbors and others drop in for carry-out throughout our meal, apparently unable to make the transition to dine-in since the restaurant’s move in December 2000.
We’ve been back to BBQ Revue since for carry-out and found the staff helpful, efficient and friendly. A North Carolinian gave the barbecue two gooey thumbs up and a hungry teen-ager helped eliminate the prospect of leftovers. Now that the steamy weather has broken through the monsoons of May, look for the enormous pig on Madison Road and take a quick trip to hog heaven, barbecue style. ©
Go: 4725 Madison Road, Madisonville
Call: 513-871-3500
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday Noon-8 p.m.; closed Monday
Prices: Inexpensive to reasonable
Payment: Major credit cards and cash
Red Meat Alternatives: Chicken and vegetable side orders, but a true vegetarian would have trouble passing the Big Pig out front
Other: Catering and special orders available
This article appears in Jun 20-26, 2001.
