I have long slept on biscuits.
For more than half of my adult life, my understanding of “biscuits” was limited to the Pillsbury discs you have to aggressively wring a cardboard roll to get to. With experience, I learned that “biscuits” could also take the form of those much more pillow-y versions you could get at the Frisch’s breakfast buffet (gone, but never forgotten). I realized there was more to this world than mildly chalky bread frisbees from freezer-friendly packaging.
But up until recently, I had yet to try what you might call a “real,” “classic” biscuit. So when I learned that chain Biscuit Love had opened a location downtown — its first outside the Southeast — I took it as a good opportunity to educate myself.
Biscuit Love began over 10 years ago as a food truck concept. Today, the family-owned franchise operates six spots across Tennessee, Alabama, and now, Ohio.
I walked into the Pleasant Street location on a chilly, flurry-filled Friday around noon. I was immediately greeted by a small retail area and register, where you place your order before being seated. Despite it being lunchtime, the space wasn’t too crowded, and I was able to order pretty much immediately.
Biscuit Love’s menu leans towards breakfast and brunch fare. The variety of biscuit dishes aside, the restaurant also offers grits bowls, waffles, granola bowls and other morning-centric dishes, alongside a selection of beverages, including fresh-squeezed orange juice and a small cocktail menu. Biscuit Love also has jars of its jam and take-home varieties of its signature biscuits for sale.
Obviously a biscuit newbie, I decided to play it safe. Instead of following my heart, I followed the little doodle hearts printed on the menu designating “Customer Favorites.” I went for the “Princess” biscuit sandwich, featuring a “Nashville Style Spicy Boneless ‘Hot Chicken’ Thigh,” pickles, mustard and honey, but passed on the option of adding an egg for a $2.50 upcharge. I also opted for a side of stone ground cheese grits. Although not a customer pick, I found myself intrigued by the housemade brown sugar lemonade and ordered a cup. Their famous “Bonuts” – fried biscuit dough with sugar, lemon mascarpone and blueberry compote – also caught my eye. However, they only come in a “shareable” serving of five, and dining alone, I thought it wiser to limit myself and stuck with the savory dishes.
I sat at the table matching the number I was handed at the register. I could feel the copy of What Would Dolly Do? staring me down from the gift shop, wall art printed with the same question hanging nearby (alongside major holidays, Biscuit Love staff also get a day off in September for Dollywood Staff Appreciation Day). I enjoyed the ambiance; alongside the Dolly-bilia, stylized images of Cincinnati mingled with floral wallpapers and the floor-to-ceiling windows allowed sunlight to spill in and let me take in the snowfall. Had I not already reached my caffeine limit that morning, I would have loved to sit at the coffee bar in the back, which offers a selection of specialty lattes.
My lemonade soon arrived. Much to my relief, it wasn’t the overly-sweet type. With a color as deep as apple juice (hello, brown sugar!), it hit that perfect tartness threshold. Even in spite of the cold day outside, it was incredibly refreshing. I couldn’t stop sipping and was comforted by the “free refills” note on the menu.
My meal arrived soon after. The first thing I noticed was that the biscuit was square. Again, complete biscuit rookie here (“They can do that?”), and this had no impact on the flavor whatsoever. I’d just thought I’d put that out there to spare anyone else deceived by the Pillsbury Doughboy from being visibly surprised to the embarrassing degree I was.
Despite being advertised as a sandwich, I had to tackle the Princess with a knife and fork. I tore off a bit of the breading first, and once again had my expectations defied. The batter was airy and fluffy, and had a consistency more along the lines of tempura, instead of a harder crunch I was expecting of the fried chicken. It packed a slow-acting punch; the spice kicked in at the very last minute, and I was thankful I had ordered the lemonade.
In tandem with the pickles, honey and biscuit, the spice of the chicken became less potent. All elements combined made for what I’d call a cozy burn. The dark meat chicken was a great complement to the fresh biscuit, the greasy (in the best way) bites balanced out by the layers of soft, buttery, flaky bread. The tart pickles and sweet, runny honey were also great complements to the mix, although I wasn’t really picking up any of the mustard drizzled on top. For $13, I’d say it’s a hearty sandwich — but definitely not one you should expect to eat on the go.
I absolutely loved the buttery, thick grits – they were delicious and another effective means of keeping the spice at bay. But an order is only a small saucer full. For the $4 asking price, I was scraping the plate in no time and left wanting more.
All in all, my meal was flavorful, fresh and filling. I appreciated the efficiency of service with the welcoming, sit-down atmosphere. I was in and out fairly quickly, yet I was still treated to a homestyle meal. My quest for biscuits certainly won’t stop at Biscuit Love, but I can see myself returning to try the other, more breakfast-y dishes — biscuit-related or otherwise — down the road.
Biscuit Love, 1602 Pleasant St., Over-the-Rhine. More info: biscuitlove.com.
This story is featured in CityBeat’s Jan. 22 print edition.
This article appears in Jan 22 – Feb 4, 2025.