Along with charcuterie, I file empanadas under: “Things that are fun to eat and fun to say.” Which was all the excuse a friend and I — plus our tiny, dependent, car-seat-riding plus ones — needed to venture down to Ché during its grand-opening weekend to check out the restaurant and its selection of empanadas. Located just a hair off the beaten path in Over-the-Rhine, Ché is nestled on Walnut Street, down a block from 16 Bit Bar+Arcade.
And like most urban eateries, Ché’s space is tall and narrow. But unlike most of its contemporaries, the decor is Latin, rich in color and wood. We were seated just inside the door, across from the bustling kitchen, but the space still felt settled and accommodating.
We both studied the menu for all of four seconds before admitting to each other that we wanted to try each and every empanada — in the name of research, of course. However, in order to round out our meal, we also each ordered a salad. I opted for the Rucula ($9), with arugula, fresh Parmesan and lemon olive-oil vinaigrette. While there was seemingly not much to that one, it had bite — a bite worth keeping around. It stayed and functioned as a palette cleanser between empanadas.
My date (the one who was awake and not the little tot wiggling in my lap) ordered the Argentine Grilled Romaine ($9), with grilled romaine lettuce, bacon, heirloom tomatoes and grilled crostini, topped with gorgonzola dressing. This was one creamy BLT. Her plate was clean within minutes.
Then, without any sense of delay, our empanada spread was placed in the center of our table.
There was no specific order or plan of empanada attack; we simply worked our way through each one, in whatever serendipitous order they appeared on the plate. Upon finishing, however, I realized the easiest way to talk about these empanadas is to group them into three categories: cheese; meat as a focal point; and those that surprised for one reason or another.
The three “cheese” empanadas were basically quesadillas with an additional ingredient. One had baby spinach (De Espinaca; $3), one had sautéed onion (Queso y Cebolla; $3) and the other was a classic ham and cheese (Jamon y Queso; $3). Of the three, the ham and cheese hit that familiar and tasty spot.
Then there were the meat-centric ’nadas. The De Carne ($3), with cumin- and paprika-spiced beef, was the most promising and comforting. It was heavy without being daunting. Then there was the Spicy Smoked Pork Belly ($4), with braised pork belly, caramelized onion and cheese. This one was super serious, as most pork belly is.
But the final category is really worth chatting about: The real surprises of the night came from the Shrimp Scampi ($4), with sautéed shrimp tossed with garlic and herbs, mozzarella and provolone. I assumed I’d love this one, because it included my lifeblood, shellfish, and I was right.
The Buffalo Chicken ($4), with spicy chicken, mozzarella, provolone and creamy gorgonzola dipping sauce surprised us both, but for different reasons. I assumed it would be my least favorite because buffalo is typically a flavor I don’t like, but this buffalo chicken wasn’t heavy on the sauce. And it was for that reason that my friend thought it would be her favorite, but it wasn’t because it wasn’t Frank’s-forward. At the end of the day, it just tasted like hot (temperature-wise, not kicky), melty cheese with chicken, all wrapped up and fried. I, who doesn’t care for hot sauce, liked it. Someone who loves hot sauce might find it disappointing.
The Breakfast ($4), with country-style sausage, scrambled eggs and cheddar cheese, was the final surprise of the night. This was the only one I considered passing on because a breakfast empanada seemed out of place, but I am so glad I didn’t because it was probably my favorite. Lesson learned: No matter the hour of the day, I will always be into a breakfast option. In between juggling a squirmy child, enjoying conversation with a dear friend, sipping Argentinian Zorzal Sauvignon Blanc ($9) and splitting eight different empanadas, the night was a good one.
However, at this point, I find myself needing to address this issue: Where do empanadas fit in the world? As appetizers? As dinner? Are they South American wontons? Bite-sized Spanish calzones? Don’t know; don’t care. Put anything hot and cheesy inside a fried dough pocket and it’s OK in my book. I just wonder under what circumstances would I crave and seek out the option. As a pre-party base-builder for a night out with girlfriends? As a late-night stuffing craze after hours of drinking while gaming? Again, don’t know; don’t care.
There are places in the word for mini dishes, like sushi and tapas and wings, and Ché’s empanadas fit snuggly in that category, just like its new spot on Walnut.
GO: 1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine; CALL: 513-978-1706; INTERNET: checincinnati.com; HOURS: 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Friday; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday.
This article appears in Jan 27 – Feb 3, 2016.