That’s Soooo Cincinnati

This is the time of year when Cincinnati shows its strong Catholic roots in full force. That’s right, it’s Lent, and while the observance of Lent extends across the denominations, it’s Catholics who tend to — if you’ll pardon the expression — religiously observe the custom of eating fish on Fridays.

In fact, one of Cincinnati’s more fascinating culinary contributions to the national dining scene is the McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich. Way back in 1963, a Mickey D franchisee named Lou Groen created the sandwich at his North Bend golden arches, satisfying an overwhelming demand from his Catholic customers during Lent. The rest, as they say, is McHistory.

Today, however, you needn’t head to Mickey D’s for your fish fix on a Friday. Most people in these parts hail the Green Derby’s selection in Newport, which is known for serving the “filet mignon of the sea.” They’ve won so many Best Fish Sandwich contests in local media outlets that it’s hard to keep count.

We headed over there on a recent Friday, and The Passion of the Christ must have just let out at the Newport on the Levee multiplex. The place was jammed, and there were so many white collars in evidence we thought we were at Mass. The Icelandic halibut sandwich is indeed delicious, served with a crunchy breading and pickle tartar sauce on dark rye. (You also have a choice of Icelandic cod, a premium loin cut.)

But one piece of advice: If you’re Lutheran, Episcopalian, Presbyterian or anything else but Catholic, pass up Friday here. The sandwich is just as good on a Tuesday or Thursday, and you’ll beat the crowds.

A restaurant that’s made its reputation based on Lent. That’s soooo Cincinnati.

This article appears in Mar 24-30, 2004.