“Tavo … isn’t that Italian for table?” I ask a server on a recent outing to the new bistro in Hamilton. Her brow fully furrowed, she says she’s not sure, but thinks the decorator named it Tavo’s because it “just sounds good.” After consulting a manager, she confirms it is Italian for table. (Actually, it’s the root of many Italian words relating to table).
Tavo’s sounds good in many ways. First is its Hamilton location, where residents are accustomed to making the drive south to Cincinnati or north to Dayton for fine dining experiences. Second are enticing menu descriptions — items like apple-almond slaw and pink-peppercorn remoulade. But something is missing: It feels a little like by-the-book upscale dining.
Located in the One Renaissance Center that houses the City of Hamilton’s offices, the interior is surprisingly soft and welcoming. Golden tones and ambient lighting are accented by red, white and blue hanging lamps and colorful artwork. Funky patterns give a contemporary flair, and Billie Holiday vocals at perfect volume add the final touch.
The chef is Jeremy Cornett, whose previous restaurant stints include Dudley’s in Lexington and Maisonette. His eclectic menu is bold for its Hamilton location, but fails to qualify Tavo’s as a destination in itself. Nevertheless, if you live nearby or are visiting for an event at the Fitton Center, it’s a fine choice for lunch or dinner.
We start with Three-Cheese Wontons ($6.25), crisp, not greasy, and stuffed with asiago, smoked Gouda and mozzarella. The menu lists roasted shallot-grape compote, but all I can make out is halved grapes. No matter: It’s a delightful juxtaposition of flavors, with salty cheese offset by sweet reduced balsamic vinegar and tempered by a bed of field greens.
We also sample the only vegetarian main course, Linguine Primavera ($10.50), a color-deprived plate of noodles with sparse zucchini, squash, broccoli and onions with garlic and herb wine sauce. I can only assume it’s meant to be subtly enjoyable, but we find it just plain bland. It’s rare that I find myself reaching for the salt and pepper, but I have no qualms about shaking liberally in this case. (Most of the dish is taken home and makes a good stir-fry the next day, doctored up with mushrooms and teriyaki).
The same veggies from the linguine appear on both entrées in similar form, and their faint, watery sweetness doesn’t stand up to the richness of my Ginger-Citrus Salmon ($16.75), which is better enhanced by a sweet ginger-orange glacé. Ordered medium-rare, it arrived slightly over medium. A side of wild mushrooms and rice would be a tasty contrast if it retained a little more of the “wild” flavor.
My boyfriend orders Walnut-Crusted Chicken ($15.75). He can’t pick out the walnut flavor, but declares the chicken tender and flavorful. His side of mushroom risotto is creamy and thick, but distinctive seasoning, again, is notably absent.
Salads are included with entrées (not pastas). My Caesar is good, but my boyfriend’s House Salad is better, with field greens, dried cherries, slivered almonds and balsamic vinaigrette. Our evening ends with Vanilla Cheesecake ($3), creamy and firm, topped with strawberries and a drizzle of fresh strawberry syrup, not a hint of artificial flavoring.
We enjoy our evening, but it feels a little like formula dining, lacking in soul. The headlining portions of the dishes are creative, but repetitive and uninspired side ingredients lower the overall appeal of the plate. The presentation of rice or potatoes, vegetables and meat reminds me of traditional banquet hall fare.
Overall, it’s a decent value — we have three courses apiece, two glasses of pinot grigio ($4 each) and dessert for under $70. Our courses are perfectly paced by our server, who is attentive to most details, though we do have to request new silverware twice. ©
Tavo’s
Go: 345 High St., Hamilton
Call: 513-894-5222
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Monday-Thursday 5:30-9 p.m., Friday 5:30-11 p.m., Saturday 5-11 p.m.
Prices: Expensive
Payment: Major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Seafood, chicken, one vegetarian appetizer and entrée
This article appears in Nov 27 – Dec 3, 2002.