A contemporary restaurant has to have something to say to distinguish it from the masses. It’s not easy to gauge. It’s somewhat like falling in love — you just know when you’ve arrived. Bistro 318 (formerly Scalea’s) is certainly charming in its historic building on Covington’s courthouse square. The service often rivals that of any five-star restaurant. The food, well, I like you — really I do — but I’m just not in love with you … yet.
Still owned and operated by Queen City Restaurant Group (QCRG also includes Bella, Teller’s, Donna’s Diner and Watson Bros. Brewery), Bistro 318 is the third updated version of this establishment since its debut as part gourmet deli and upscale Italian eatery in the late ’90s. Owned in its first incarnation by the Deans, a couple who employed the talents of then local popular chef Anita Hirsch-Cunningham, the two small dining rooms, bar and outdoor patio of Scalea’s Ristorante were typically packed most nights of the week. Scalea’s went through several chef changes affecting the overall quality and business after Hirsch-Cunningham left Cincinnati; then it was sold to QCRG in 2002. QCRG dropped the more formal Ristorante and Chef Alan Stickell updated the menu to feature contemporary, lighter Italian-inspired dishes in his fine-dining style with bistro pricing.
The deli-grocery was turned into a casual room for lunch, offering salads and big deli sandwiches.
In its third life as Bistro 318, the northern Italian focus has given way to a “contemporary American blend of fusion cuisine” — a something-for-everyone approach — and the lunch area has been revamped into a third dining room which suffers from some stylistic disconnect.
However, the cozy, urbane ambiance of the original dining rooms remains the same. The front room bar gives the bistro the feel of a hip neighborhood joint, while the warm walls, tablecloths and great lighting add some casual elegance. A bit of stucco, tile and the romantic little patio out back lend a European spirit.
You can see why I want to fall in love and, in fact, have often recommended this site as a great date restaurant because the ambience and the service are guaranteed winners. I just wish the food were as consistent.
Our first course out of the gate, a Smoked Eggplant Soup garnished with Holy Basil and Cumin Yogurt ($6), was all smoke and no fire. In fact, none of us in a party of four could distinguish any flavor beyond the smoke and left it unfinished.
While the four of us agreed the Tempura Asparagus and Sweet Potato Salad ($10) with its enoki mushrooms, plums and ginger dressing was interesting and delicious, none of us were particularly moved by the Apple Smoked Bacon and Spinach Salad ($10), whose dry leaves would have benefited from more of the barely noticeable apple/thyme/cider reduction.
We liked the depth of choice for this menu, and there is a lot to choose from for main courses without being overwhelming. A special section allows you to create your own dish from the grill, choosing meat, chicken, pork or seafood, the preparation (grilled, blackened, Au Poivre or Jamaican Jerk) and the accompanying sides (soba noodles, mashed potatoes, wilted spinach and more).
While a nice option, we chose an Italian pasta with pesto and sausage ($16); a traditional Brazilian seafood dish called Vatapa ($19), a pan-seared Chilean sea bass with a wonderful cucumber and fennel relish ($27) and the Maple-Kissed Quail with mashed potatoes and wilted spinach ($25). All were consistently good, but none memorable enough to warrant the price points.
Dessert was fabulously memorable. Strawberry Shortcake ($7) was grown-up with mascarpone mousse, and our server didn’t bat an eye when she saw us running our fingers through the chocolate toffee sauce that accompanied the Flourless Chocolate Torte ($7) with vanilla ice cream.
I rarely mind spending $200 for dinner if the experience is unique and memorable with food that is at once revelatory and delectable, served in a felicitous environment with a wait staff that is efficient, polite, knowledgeable and never tritely overbearing. Despite some of the lackluster dishes, ambience and service are what propels Bistro 318 into the realm of a dining experience and what makes the price tag bearable. Servers are extremely professional and politely invisible without being the least bit inattentive. No excessive familiarity, courses were timed perfectly, and our server was adept at recommending a tasty wine that paired nicely with so many different flavors at our table. There is sense of hospitality beyond the service alone that gives Bistro 318 its voice.
With some of this attention turned to the execution of the menu, we could be saying the “L” word. ©
Bistro 318
Go: 318 Greenup St. Covington
Call: 859-491-3334
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Prices: Expensive
Payment: Cash and major credit cards accepted.
Red Meat Alternatives: Two appetizers, three salads and two pastas for vegetarians; seafood, poultry and pork
Accessibility: Front doors to dining room or bar only.
Grade: B-
This article appears in May 18-24, 2005.