Unwind may not be Cincinnati’s oldest wine bar, but after almost six years in business, it’s definitely in the running. The expansive indoor and outdoor space around the corner from Hyde Park Square has fused an upscale-casual ambiance with a wide selection of New World and Old World wines and small plates that complement the drinks.
Partners Derek Beekman and Victor Abler opened Unwind in 2012 after scouting many wine bars on travels to the West Coast and Europe. They wanted to create a place that truly focused on wine, and they thought Hyde Park Square — in the heart of a neighborhood that appreciates wine — was the right fit for their concept.
“The boutique shops work so well with our boutique wine list,” Beekman says.
Beekman is the hands-on half of the partnership and you’ll likely run into him most evenings, seating guests and making sure the operation runs smoothly.
I’d never been to Unwind in warm weather to experience the outdoor patio. The interior rooms are quite cozy, and I had enjoyed the comfortable chairs and inviting fireplace on cool nights in fall and winter. This time I went with a group of friends on what happened to be the first truly warm evening of the spring. We arrived during Unwind’s nightly happy hour (4-7 p.m.), which brings in a good crowd even during less-beautiful weather. Luckily I had made a reservation because the patio was slammed and a large after-work group had taken over most of the interior.
Our table wasn’t quite ready but only two of my party had arrived in time for the reservation anyway, so we waited until the table became available and my people drifted in. Beekman got us set up outdoors around a mostly shaded grouping of chairs and sofas with a short center table.
The deal at happy hour consists of a $2 discount on glasses of wine — regular prices range from about $9-$15 — and $2 off most of the food items (regularly priced $9-$14). There’s also a wine flight of the day, which consisted of three ounces each of four Spanish wines ($20) during our visit. You can create your own flights of four pours from the entire list, at half the listed price. Regular pours are six ounces; flight pours are three.
It’s so much fun to try four different wines of your choice — from dozens of white, red or sparkling options — and that’s what most of us did. I went with a French sparkling rosé, two lighter white wines and one “big red.” My favorites were one of the whites, a California chenin blanc and the red, a luscious petite sirah from California. My friends especially liked the red Burgundy and a Russian River Valley chardonnay.
The service slowed down after our last two friends came in weary from a traffic jam, and one complained that it took too long to get his drinks. I wrote it off to the packed house that had materialized on an unexpectedly pleasant evening after a too-long winter.
We did enjoy a few small plates. I’d especially recommend the warm artichoke dip, pleasantly garlicky with truffle oil and topped with browned bread crumbs and parmesan cheese. It came with a few slices of baguette (and we would have welcomed a few more).
All of the food is either vegetarian or vegan (the owners are vegan). With choices such as crostini, flatbread, warm olives, cheeses and a hummus sampler, along with a few desserts, there’s enough for a light meal — or at least some satisfying bites to accompany your wine.
Unwind Wine Bar & Light Fare, 3435 Michigan Ave., Hyde Park, 513-321-9463, unwindhydepark.com. HOURS: 5-11 p.m. Monday; 4-11 p.m. Tuesday-Wednesday; 4 p.m.-midnight Thursday; 4 p.m.-1:15 a.m. Friday-Saturday.
Other Outstanding Wine-Oriented Establishments
Amid the crazy fun on Vine Street in Over-the-Rhine, 1215 Wine Bar & Coffee Lab manages to offer a relatively civilized oasis where you can hang out with friends — or your laptop — and enjoy excellent coffee or, more to the point, sample lovingly curated three-pour flights of sparkling, white or red wines from all over the world. I’ve found some gems here, and you also can buy bottles of your favorites to take home. 1215 Vine St., OTR, 1215vine.com.
As the only suburban choice on this list, Piccolo Wine Room somehow manages to have a more Euro feel than most of the urban places. This charming spot on Glendale Square features outdoor tables and delicious food to accompany whatever glass pours they’re featuring. The small menu changes frequently and usually includes a flatbread, salad, maybe a burger and pasta or risotto. 23 Village Square, Glendale, piccolowineroom.com.
Although it’s an entirely different layout, Corkopolis in the heart of downtown can be just as lively as the patio at Unwind. As much a wine shop as a wine bar, Corkopolis excels with a large inventory and very knowledgeable staff. Bonus: good cocktails and craft beer appease any non-wine companions, and the cheeseboard is excellent. 640 Main St., Downtown, corkopolis.com.
One of the newest places has become a worthy wine destination in the Incline District in Price Hill. Somm Wine Bar offers a large patio with tables and lounge chairs, live music on Fridays and weekday specials. You’ll find a lot of food choices — from the light fare you expect at a wine bar to several more substantial entrées. 3105 Price Ave., East Price Hill, sommwinebarcincinnati.com.
Postmark isn’t a wine bar; it’s a white-tablecloth restaurant with a small bar. But they warrant a shout-out for their knack of making wine such a fun part of dinner. With two knowledgeable sommeliers on staff, there’s always someone to ask for suggestions. Most of my interactions have been with Steven Elbrecht, whose enthusiasm for everything on the list is highly contagious. 3410 Telford St., Clifton, postmark.restaurant.
Clifton/Northside has its own wine place with the addition of The Hamilton just over a year ago. The renovated, historic building makes a unique atmosphere for enjoying a small selection of glass pours or sharing a bottle from the retail shelves (plus a fairly modest $10 corkage fee). A variety of shareable plates and good cocktails round out the offerings. 4029 Hamilton Ave., Northside, thehamiltoncincinnati.com.
