Between historic MainStrasse Village, a plethora of international restaurants and chefs who focus on regional cuisine, Covington has been teasing us to dine across the river more than ever recently — and it has absolutely nothing to do with long waits at Over-the-Rhine hotspots.
In fact, recent comparisons between the two dining destinations are apt: Northern Kentucky has long been a destination for great eats, and its food scene is now finally being recognized for what a lot of us so-called experts have been touting for quite some time.
Here are some of our favorite mainstays and new additions.
Bouquet Restaurant & Wine Bar — Chef Stephen Williams takes the finest local ingredients — Greensleeves Farm produce and Sheltowee mushrooms are favorites — and puts a modern spin on classic dishes, like 48-hour brisket and cassoulet. Vegans will love the fact that you can substitute tofu for any protein, but don’t miss The Motherboard, one of the best housemade charcuterie platters in town and a perennial favorite of visiting chefs. 519 Main St., Covington, Ky., bouquetrestaurant.com.
Coppin’s Restaurant & Bar — Located in the snazzy new Hotel Covington, Coppin’s offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in its dining room, as well as al fresco on the patio. Start your evening with a cocktail in the comfy lounge and move on to dinner featuring Napoleon Ridge Farm chorizo, Kenny’s Farmhouse cheeses and My Artisano products.638 Madison Ave., Covington, Ky., hotelcovington.com.
Frida 602 — The exceptional list of mezcal and tequila is reason enough to visit, but since it’s never wise to drink without food, order some chips with the salsa sampler, featuring fresca, verde and the outstanding smoked peanut, and a selection of tacos — al pastor, Brussels sprout, fish and braised beef are all great. Save room for the tres leches cake topped with toasted marshmallow. In warm weather, the street-side picnic tables are great for people watching. 602 Main St., Covington, Ky., facebook.com/frida602.
Gutierrez Deli — Stop by this well-stocked corner grocery for all things Hispanic including a great selection of fresh produce. During the week, Gutierrez offers fresh, housemade tacos and quesadillas for lunch, and on the weekend they expand their menu to include freshly made chicken tamales. Hint: The tamales go fast, so try to get there by 11 a.m.; don’t forget the housemade tomatillo salsa. While you’re there, pick up some avocados, cilantro and limes to take home and prepare some guacamole to round out your meal. There are two picnic tables outside if you can’t wait that long. 1131 Lee St., Covington, Ky., facebook.com/gutierrezdeli.
House of Grill — Authentic Persian cuisine is prepared and served in this family-owned and -operated restaurant. Order a variety of appetizers for your table along with some hot pita bread. The best are kashk-o-bademjan (an eggplant spread), hummus, shirazi salad and must-o-khiar (yogurt with cucumber and mint). Mains consist of different meat or vegetable kebabs and stews. 14 E. Fifth St., Covington, Ky., kentuckyhouseofgrill.com.
Inspirado — Inspirado’s multi-cultural menu was designed to showcase the way chef Baron Shirley likes to eat, be it Chinese food one night or Italian the next. Hearty, rib-sticking dishes like Colcannon, an Irish favorite of smashed potatoes, bacon and cabbage, are offered alongside a roasted beet salad, Mexican braised pork sandwich and Kentucky Hot Brown. 715 Madison Ave., Covington, Ky., inspiradocov.com.
KungFood Chu’s AmerAsia — Although quirky — posters of Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan share space on the wall with Kung Fu Panda — and a bit small, AmerAsia has been consistently putting out fresh, authentic Asian-fusion, Chinese and Taiwanese for years. The standards are all there, including General Chu’s chicken and Mongolian beef, but you’d be remiss if you didn’t try the dumplings and noodles. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, Ky., facebook.com/kungfoodchu.
Piper’s Café — Piper’s locally focused menu offers breakfast all day featuring Marksbury Farm meats, Made by Mavis jams and Glier’s goetta. For lunch, look for sandwiches topped with Kenny’s Farmhouse cheese. And save room for one of the 67 flavors of soft serve ice cream including apple pie, pomegranate and kiwi. Piper’s also offers plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. 520 W. Sixth St., Covington, Ky., piperscafe.biz.
Riverside Korean Restaurant — Book a traditional Korean-style table to sit on the floor while enjoying dolsot bibimbab, a steaming stone bowl of cooked rice with vegetables and your choice of meat. Other outstanding dishes include jab chae, sweet potato noodles with beef, and kimchi zhi gae, a spicy stew with pork, tofu and vegetables. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, Ky., riversidekoreanrestaurant.com.
Wunderbar — Don’t let the dive-bar atmosphere of Wunderbar fool you — although we wouldn’t blame you if you just sat at the bar to enjoy a cold brew and admire the enviable stein collection. This place is the real deal for simple, hearty German comfort food. Take a seat at one of the communal picnic tables and order up some housemade sausages, pierogis and a side dish of Brussels sprouts. Be prepared to unhinge your jaw if you order one of the burgers; it’ that big. 1132 Lee St., Covington, Ky., facebook.com/wunderbar.covington.3.
Old Kentucky Bourbon Bar — No night on the town in Covington would be complete without a stop at OKBB. This tiny but mighty jewel of a bar features more than 400 American bourbons and whiskey as well as a staff who knows the details about each. Cocktails are available, but try sipping a flight of different bourbons if you’re new to the spirit. 629 Main St., Covington, Ky., wellmannsbrands.com.
CONTACT ILENE ROSS: letters@citybeat.com
This article appears in Jan 18-25, 2017.