If you’re a Cincinnatian, you might be able to gauge your homesickness based on the intensity of your pangs for hometown favorites.
The flavors of establishments like Skyline and LaRosa’s can be hard to replicate. But should the pining hit, check your calendar, and cross your fingers that you’re in New York City. Because Edward’s just might be able to help.
The restaurant, located at 136 W Broadway in Tribeca, serves a variety of standard bistro fare — salads, sandwiches, brunch on the weekends. But on the last Monday of every month, Edward’s pays homage to owner (and namesake) Edward Youkilis’ Queen City origins.
Edward’s offers a roster of Cincinnati classics: all the Skyline ‘ways and coneys; plain and pepperoni LaRosa’s pizza; Montgomery Inn-style ribs; and a handful of Graeter’s ice cream flavors. An early attempt at additionally serving Frisch’s items fell through, and goetta leaned more toward breakfast, although he’s felt little pressure to change the menu.
“ Nobody’s really asked for anything different,” he said.
Youkilis was born and raised in Cincinnati. In case you’re wondering (you definitely are), he’s a graduate of Walnut Hills High School. He attended Miami University, then Yale for graduate studies in art. After moving to New York City in 1971, he became acquainted with the pioneering abstract artist, Helen Frankenthaler. He lived as her assistant and continued his own painting until the 1980s.
In 1986, while living in Rome, the opportunity arose for Youkilis to return to New York to help work on the opening of his friends’ nightclub, Nell’s (co-owned by “Rocky Horror Picture Show” star Nell Campbell).
“It was so much fun I ended up sort of staying longer,” Youkilis explained.
He worked as manager for the first few years of its run, living between New York City and Rome before relocating permanently back to the city. He moved on to co-own Lucky Strike in SoHo and manage the Odeon. Today, he owns Edward’s in Tribeca; while he certainly hasn’t forgotten his creative roots, it seems he just isn’t ready to part ways with the industry.
“ I just keep doing it even though I keep (being) ready to stop and be an artist again,” Youkilis explained.
Edward’s is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, having opened in the fall of 2001. Youkilis describes Edward’s as a “very small neighborhood restaurant,” wagering that about 90% of the everyday clientele live and work in the area.
The Cincinnati schtick is nothing new — Edward’s has been plating 3-ways and pizzas for over two decades. In the earlier days of the restaurant, Youkilis would have Cincinnati expats on staff; inevitably, cans of Skyline chili would follow. At first, they were served as a staff meal.
“People were actually coming in and they would say, ‘That looks like Skyline chili. Where’d you get it?’” Youkilis explained.
“They would say, ‘Well, we live down the street. We’d like to have some, too.’”
While demand varies month-to-month, according to Youkilis, the Skyline chili dishes tend to be the most popular, and the favorite Graeter’s flavor is (perhaps unsurprisingly) black raspberry chocolate chip. The only variation to the menu Youkilis can think of is a new Graeter’s flavor every now and then.
He works with Kroger and Cincy Favorites to source these distinct items of Cincinnati fare. While he admits to not sourcing every single core ingredient due to logistics (for example, they use their own cheese and buns for the coneys), most of what’s served at the very least reflects the classic tastes of Cincinnati.
And the community has taken notice. According to Youkilis, the crowd makeup on Cincinnati Nights tends to be a mix of Cincinnatians, folks with relatives from Cincinnati, people who’ve worked in Cincinnati, or individuals who studied at UC or Xavier. However, last year, a viral TikTok video temporarily increased foot traffic from individuals who’d never had a taste of the Queen City.
“It’s really the most popular day of the month,” Youkilis said.
And, with more than two decades of unwavering popularity under his belt, Youkilis has no plans of putting Cincinnati Nights to rest. Maybe those distinct Cincinnati cravings are just too strong to ever be fully satisfied.
“It never has occurred to any of us to say, ‘I think we’ve been doing it too often.’ It just gets better and better.”