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We all have our favorites when we dine out. Sometimes it’s about a celebratory splurge or culinary adventure. Then there are the comfortable places where we feel at home, where they serve the familiar dishes we deeply connect to. Occasionally, we indulge in some mighty strange food cravings (how about those deep-fried Twinkies?).
Chefs are no different from the rest of us. There’s a delightful voyeuristic quality in discovering that instead of whipping up a plate of Pan-Seared Snapper with tomatoes, olives and capers (remembering the red onion confit, naturally), our celebrated chefs eat like, well, normal people.
Since they work mostly nights, dining out can be a rare treat. When they do, most steer away from the intellectual meal where they have to engage critical facilities and opt for simple, well-prepared food that nourishes the soul.
We asked some popular Cincinnati chefs and restaurateurs where you might find them dining on a night off, what they crave and a few questions regarding the local culinary scene.
Dave Avalos and Pam Kennedy, Chefs/Owners of Chokolate Morel, Mason
Where do you dine out?
Dave: You’ll never find me in a chain; in fact I make all my kitchen folks swear a blood oath to eat only at locally owned dining facilities.
Crunchy Pad Thai at Bombay Café rocks! I am also at least a weekly diner at Arloi Dee (Mason) — kick-ass, spicy Thai food. Sushi Mike, who has been around this town forever, still makes some of the best sushi in town. My all-time favorite restaurant is El Meson in West Carrollton (south of Dayton). Bill Castro and his partner can whip up fine Latin Fusion fare as innovatively and consistently as anyone I know (except my grandma).
Pam: Love the Pad Thai and Crazy Noodle at Arloi Dee. Eggplant at Moy Moy is the bomb. One of my favorite intimate dining spots is La Petite Pierre (Madeira). I am all about desserts made in-house. When I want a dinner I know I can count on being fabulous, I choose Germano’s (Montgomery). The reputation of their Raspberry Pie is already well-known and well-deserved. I really think the pastry selection and quality at Pho Paris is outstanding.
What is your guilty pleasure?
Dave: Fried potatoes with onion and spicy sausage. We call them castaways at Chokolate Morel because I always ask the new kitchen staff what three things would you pick if you were stranded on a desert island? Also an after-work, late-night quesadilla dipped in hotter-than-hell ketchup.
Pam: My latest is raspberry-covered yogurt pretzel from Wild Oats … oh yeah.
What is your pet peeve when dining out?
Dave: Staff who is ill-prepared or, even worse, not excited to answer questions about the facility or those who give you BS answers to questions.
Pam: Smoke!
What do you enjoy most about the culinary scene?
Dave: I love the camaraderie, friendship and sense of grandeur that we are building in Cincinnati among chefs and restaurateurs. There are many of us who believe in the long-term vision of the area and that there’s a real sense that we will once again be recognized as one of the great food cities in the country.
Pam: I love that we have so many independently owned restaurants.
What’s missing?
Dave: A dining community that refuses to dine in a homogenized cookie-cutter chain restaurant!
Pam: We would love to see a trade program among the restaurants. Perhaps we could open on a designated Monday for restaurant folks and their families. Then on another Monday someone else would be scheduled to open. Everyone is closed on the same days!
Bertrand Bouquin, Executive Chef of Maisonette, Downtown
Dines: Andy’s Mediterranean Grille (Walnut Hills). It is authentic food and a fun atmosphere. Andy is a friend and runs a great restaurant! Jo An (Erlanger) is original Japanese food, and I think they have the best sushi in town. I really like the Dim Sum brunch on Saturday and Sunday at Pacific Moon (Montgomery). They serve several foods on carts you can share with your family and try new things. My favorite is to dine at home with my family. My wife Tanya is the chef in that kitchen. I am just a line cook.
Guilty pleasures: I dip everything! It is a habit; I dip everything from cookies in milk to toast in coffee. I am a dipper. So is my daughter, Emma.
Pet Peeve: I don’t like it when servers and managers make small talk with me. I am there to enjoy dining with my friends and my family, not to waste time with small talk. Sounds mean, but you asked.
Enjoy most: It’s a small community, but there is still a lot of diversity in food.
What’s missing: I wish Cincinnatians were more adventurous when it comes to dining. I would like people to try new and exotic things, not just meat and potatoes. There are so many different and delicious foods out there — you just have to try them.
Amy Tobin, Culinary Director of EQ @ The Party Source, Newport
Dines: I recently discovered Café Istanbul (Newport). I’m all about ambiance and it’s got it, plus great service. From the hummus to the shish kebob, the tabouleh to the Turkish coffee, the food is terrific! For fish and chips, I go straight to Nicholson’s (Downtown). I have never ordered anything else there, and I won’t. For a special occasion, anything Jean-Robert de Cavel does works for me!
Guilty pleasure: Sometimes all a girl needs is a little grease. That’s when I head to Logos (Blue Ash) for a burger and their absolutely addicting onion straws. When I have a craving for strawberry ice cream, I go straight to Graeters.
Pet Peeve: When the kids are with us and the server refills their sodas every two minutes. Not only is it wasteful, but you try dealing with a kid who’s had 10 Cokes!
Enjoy most: I am so impressed by many of the talented chef-owners we have in Cincinnati. It takes a lot of heart and soul to run a successful place. They’re going to light this town up. I’m also impressed by how involved the culinary talent is with the community — they give so much!
What’s Missing: A good deli. One of life’s purest pleasures is a good deli sandwich. Where’s the real pumpernickel bread in this town? If you find it, let me know.
Michele Vollman and Suzy DeYoung, Owners/Chefs of La Petite Pierre, Madeira
Dines: We both like to dine in ethnic restaurants. I (Michele) like the potstickers at Doodles (Hyde Park) as well as their thick and wide noodle with black bean sauce. Suzy loves the Saag Paneer at Baba (Oakley) and Cumin (Hyde Park) and all of Cumin’s vegetarian dishes. If we had more time to dine out, we would dine at any of Jean-Robert’s restaurants. By saying that, do we get a free “Scooby Snack” with our next reservation, J-R?
Guilty pleasure: Swedish Fish for me, and we both have a thing for Hot Tamales. Suzy doesn’t like to boast, but the Fried Calamari at La Petite Pierre is another. I don’t really eat fried food, but the Calamari is perfect — spicy and lemony.
Pet peeve: Suzy’s pet peeve is bad service, especially when they don’t bring her second glass of wine fast enough! We both hate cigarette smoke that filters into the dining room. It will totally ruin a meal for us.
Enjoy most: We dine only at independently owned restaurants. We choose to support the places like ours, where people put their heart and soul into their place.
What’s missing: We would love a place that offers “garbage can” eating! Anyone who has worked in a restaurant knows what this is. When you have a brief moment, you snag something to eat (no utensils, only fingers and not off a customer’s plate). You must lean over the closest garbage can so you don’t dribble on yourself.
Scott Neidhard, Executive Chef of Celestial Steakhouse, Mount Adams
Dines: I find myself drawn to casual and relaxed environments. It’s amusing to watch the regulars belly up to the piano bar singing oldies at Sorrento’s (Reading). I like Bridgetown Finer Meats for a deli sandwich or to pick up some nice steaks. You can’t go wrong with the ambiance and a bowl of melted chocolate at The Melting Pot (Symmes Township). When I’m short on time, the Danny Boy from Chicken on the Run (Deer Park) hits the spot. But nothing compares to the feasts at my mother-in-law’s house. She can throw down!
Guilty pleasure: A true weakness for white chocolate buckeyes from Haute Chocolate (Montgomery), late night jaunts to UDF for a malt, the hot fudge sippable sundaes from Steak ‘N Shake or anything from White Castle.
Pet Peeve: Lack of professionalism and decent customer service when dining out. Whether I’m at a fine-dining restaurant or fast food joint, it seems customers needs are more of an inconvenience than ever before.
Enjoy most: Whether you’re looking to get a good pizza or quality sushi, there’s always something to satisfy your desires.
What’s missing: Customer service.
Mary Le, Managing Partner of Pho Paris, Oakley, and Manager of Song Long, Roselawn
Dines: I love the sushi and relaxing atmosphere at Mt. Adams Fish House (Mount Adams), and for an elegant evening Barressi’s (Deer Park) is an exquisite Italian restaurant. I love the gyros at Mediterranean Foods (Clifton) — extra spicy for me! If it’s been a while, I’ll eat two. And Allyn’s Café (Columbia-Tusculum) for the live music and great people.
Guilty pleasure: Pigging out all day on Sundays with my family.
Pet peeve: When establishments don’t have good hot sauce. Give me a bottle of Tabasco and I’ll be happy.
Enjoy most: The variety (of restaurants) for dinner.
What’s missing: The variety for late-nighters, like restaurateurs.
Cristian Pietoso, Executive Chef of Nicola’s, Over-the-Rhine
Dines: Every time I go to Boca (Oakley) I jump back in my Tuscany — my good friend David Falk is talented. I love Arthur’s (Hyde Park) for the great nachos and juicy burgers. But the place I like the most is my father’s house (Nicolas Pietoso, owner of Nicola’s). His wife, Maureen, is an awesome cook.
Guilty pleasure: Pasta any way — tomato sauce, butter, Parmigiano or Bolognese. Also bread! Like a true Italian, I can’t skip my bread.
Pet peeve: Loud people with cell phones.
Enjoy most: Last time I was here (five years ago), the only real restaurant was Maisonette with Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel. Now he has three great places; Boca is here and Daveed’s (Mount Adams). I enjoy that people have so many great choices. Cincinnati is developing a great reputation, and it will become a place known for good food. I love it.
What’s missing: Better seafood. We’re too far from the ocean to have a fish right out of the water!
Audrey Cobb, Day Chef of Arnold’s, Downtown (and Chef/Owner of recently closed Mullane’s)
Dines: I like to go where the focus is more on food than atmosphere. Amol (Clifton) for my favorite curries and the reasonable prices. The Roasted Chicken, Moussaka and Baklava at Floyd’s (Clifton Heights), plus the wonderful, really nice people that own it and work there. Potluck (Northside) — Chef Jim Demaree takes time and care with the food; very high quality. And of course Riverside Korean Restaurant (Covington) — mmmmm, vegetarian stone bowl soup.
Guilty pleasure: (Audrey apparently had none at the time of interview.)
Pet peeve: Overcooked and overpriced food. Inconsistent food. When the restaurant puts décor before food and spends a lot of money on pizzazz but has no follow-through.
Enjoy most: We have a lot of choices for a mid-sized Midwest city. We have some great small, neighborhood restaurants.
What’s missing: We don’t have enough health-conscious establishments. It’s very easy to use meat and cream to make food taste good. It’s more of a challenge to cook with seasonal, fresh ingredients and produce. ©
This article appears in Apr 27 – May 3, 2005.