The longest-standing vegetarian joint in Clifton and the first in the city to offer Mediterranean food, Myra’s Dionysus is a cozy Clifton haven of wholesome ethnic flavor and lots of love. Despite eclectic world offerings and plenty of soy products, the place has been around too long (since 1977) to be described as “trendy.”
The Scene
Set back from Calhoun traffic in the shadow of Cody’s Cafe, the heavy wooden doors of Myra’s place are a sure sign you’re walking into a good thing. Six hand-painted boards listing soups du jour above the deli display offer more evidence. With black, wooden-paneled walls covered in colorful local artwork, the dining room is intimate without feeling claustrophobic. Petite tables set with black tablecloths are overlaid with colorful, thickly stitched tapestry squares and matching carnations.
On a recent weeknight, a friend and I experienced a general air of contentedness filling the room. The Velvet Underground hummed just above the soft drum of conversation. The small dining room was half-filled with chattering pairs and single diners with a fork dangling in one hand and a book in the other.
The Scoop
Greek-based, Myra’s menu is a rainbow of Indian, Turkish and Indonesian dishes.
There are even a few Mexican platters, such as the Red Bean Mole ($6) of peppers, tomatoes and chocolate (yes, chocolate) over red beans and rice. The specialties are spice-laden sauces like the Imam Bialdi ($6), a Turkish blend of eggplant and tomato. There are plenty of soups, salads and sandwiches, and besides some chicken and lamb, the menu is entirely vegetarian. Hummus, Baba Ganouj or Tabouli ($3.75) are served with bite-size pita triangles (get the garlic oregano).
We loved the Tapenade ($4.50), a salty, fishy delight with olives, capers, basil and anchovies. My Sesame Salad ($4) was lovely, with fresh Romaine lettuce, raisins, onion, cucumber and tomato drizzled with toasted sesame vinaigrette. We took the server’s soup recommendations and weren’t disappointed with the rich, velvety Thai Pumpkin ($1.50/cup) and the mouth-filling blend of plump tomatoes, fresh herbs and rice in the Tomato and Cilantro ($1.50/cup).
Not ready to relinquish our appetizers when the entrées arrived, I really didn’t mind our cluttered table. The simple flavors were complimentary, and I rather enjoyed fork-jumping from plate to plate.
As entrées, my friend had handmade Fettuccine with pesto ($6.25), declaring the sauce “not too oily, like a lot of pestos.” I had Pulao ($6), a brown rice spiced with coconut and plump hot raisins. The side of hot parsley chutney really made my dish — and made me reach for my iced mango yogurt beverage, the “Mango Lassi” ($3.50).
For dessert, the server suggested the hunka chocolate-banana layer cake ($3) with peanut-butter icing. So-so. I think I would have preferred the Baklava ($1.25). While my guest sipped espresso, I tried the hot mulled port ($4), a dessert by its own virtue, though better suited to December than July.
The meal was thoroughly satisfying, the server attentive and helpful. Our only complaint was that the wine list was pretty timid, especially given the fact that the restaurant is named for the Greek god of wine.
The Sizzle
With student-friendly prices, the menu is really conducive to tasting a little of a lot of dishes. Many of the ingredients overlap, but subtle differences let you choose just the flavor combination you want. For the indecisive, a sampler plate ($6) offers tasting portions of three dishes.
Go: 121 Calhoun St., Clifton Heights
Call: 513-961-1578
Hours: MondayThursday 11 a.m.10 p.m.; FridaySaturday 11 a.m.11 p.m.; Sunday 510 p.m.
Prices: Inexpensive
Payment: All major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Take your beef-lusting tongue down the street to the fast food strip.
This article appears in Jul 3-9, 2002.
