Nick & Tony’s, which opened in late 2002 just up the street from the Aronoff Center for the Arts and a stone’s throw from favorite son Jeff Ruby’s eponymous steakhouse, is clubby and sophisticated yet relaxed and approachable. A chophouse for Everyman. But there’s something I need to get off my chest right away: Nick & Tony’s is, gasp, a chain restaurant. The very term inspires loathing among foodies and traditionalistas, conjuring up the portion-controlled, plastic-wrapped, preternaturally processed KFCs and Olive Gardens of the world. But there are some quality chains that redefine the genre, and this place, owned by a Chicago outfit that operates a half-dozen other Nick & Tony’s and over 30 restaurants nationwide (including Newport’s Bar Louie), certainly fits this category.
The restaurant is roomy with lots of booths and an ample bar/lounge full of comfy seats. Decked in mahogany and leather — with vintage posters, Frank Sinatra crooning and nice lighting — Nick & Tony’s has an atmosphere of practiced, near-authenticity. It’s the kind of place Pottery Barn might create if it were in the restaurant business.
And as my chain-indifferent companion, who had no idea that Cincinnati’s Nick & Tony’s isn’t the one and only, pointed out: Does it really matter if it’s a chain as long as the food is good, the service is on and the atmosphere is right?
To start, we shared the Spinach & Artichoke dip ($7).
It was rich, creamy and delicious but would have been even better served hot instead of lukewarm. On to the main event. There’s no way around it: To experience a classic-style chophouse, you’ve got to order a big steak — and don’t even think about asking for it well done (the menu taunts: “Sorry, we are not responsible for steaks ordered past medium”).
I relied on my companion, a butt-kicking, farm-raised Kentucky girl, to step up and order the 16-oz. Bone-In Filet ($38). Succulent and richly flavored with a red wine demi-glace and herb butter, this was an outstanding piece of meat that would have made my Italian grandfather — who ran a neighborhood butcher shop straight out of the old country for many years — very happy.
Next to this chest-thumping carnivore action, I felt like a total pantywaist nibbling at my Blackened Mahi Mahi with Avocado, Charred Tomato and Mango Salsa with Chipotle Butter Sauce and Cilantro Rice ($17). The fish was exceptionally moist and fresh, with a spicy, crunchy crust that packed a respectable amount of heat. The mango salsa nicely balanced the rich and spicy chipotle butter sauce, while the cilantro rice provided a soft, creamy complement to the fish.
Another non-beef alternative is the Spit Roasted Rotisserie Chicken ($12). This tender, flavorful house specialty is marinated, roasted on an open rotisserie and served with mashed potatoes.
I recommend the excellent Mac and Cheese ($8). Made with five cheeses, it’s delicious, rib-sticking stuff that tastes like homemade. In addition to more steak and seafood choices ($15-$26), the menu also includes salads, a few pasta dishes and a selection of more affordable burgers and sandwiches ($6.50-$10).
Interestingly, there’s no printed dessert menu. Servers recite a few options like the giant three-tier Chocolate Cake and the Carrot Cake (both $6.95). Portions are enormous. We split the Carrot Cake, which was moist, chunky and slathered with delicious cream cheese frosting.
The service — more Midwestern friendly than classic chophouse — could be improved. The size of the restaurant can mean a wait as the one hostess ferries parties to remote tables. Our server wasn’t much help navigating the wine list, and we waited too long for our wine to arrive. The pause between appetizer and main course was also just a few beats too many.
In the end, like anything in life, it’s all about expectations. If you believe all chain restaurants are culinary wastelands, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by Nick & Tony’s solid food and upscale yet approachable atmosphere. On the other hand, if you’re expecting the gold standard of a premium joint like Jeff Ruby’s, you might be disappointed.
But if you want sophistication and relaxation, solid chophouse food at a good value without a lot of attitude, give Nick & Tony’s a try for a romantic meal or a pre-theater dinner. I bet you’ll enjoy it. ©
Nick & Tony’s
Go: 19 E. Seventh St., Downtown
Call: 513-723-1940
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 4-11 p.m. Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Moderate
Payment: Major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Salads, rotisserie chicken, seafood, pasta
Accessibility: Handicap access and bathrooms
Grade: B+
This article appears in Apr 28 – May 4, 2004.