Monroe, Ohio, seems an unlikely location for a cozy European-style bistro. Nestled between West Chester and Middletown, this 1850 hotel and tavern has been lovingly renovated and expanded as the Brandywine Inn. George and Doris Bernas with friend Steve Morgan created this haven to offer opportunity for diners to sample the pleasures of a set menu.
The prix fixe (fixed price) menu allows one to select from two entrées, which change each weekend, with predetermined appetizers and desserts. The three-course meal is $22.95. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, seatings are at 7 p.m., with additional seatings on Saturday.
We entered a small foyer that boasted a large frame full of turn-of-the-century men in wrestling poses, complemented by photos of old Monroe architecture. Doris Bernas greeted us as we strolled the hallway that led from the entrance at the rear of the building.
We were placed in the cheerful and comfortable "new" room with a table of four and another couple. We were soon joined by another foursome.
Dark raspberry paint was refreshed with white and yellow sponge painting over a border of burgundy with mauve flowers. White baseboards, ceilings and window frames, accented with lace curtains, completed the feeling of a small French inn, furthered by paintings of Provençal village settings and Mediterranean views. Small, cut-glass candleholders on each white-cloth-covered table matched glass plates with fluted butter pats, a thin lemon slice and a fresh sprig of parsley.
Our first sampling of Brandywine's culinary prowess included white rolls with a glaze and rye rolls made with cornmeal. Of the two, I preferred the full-bodied flavor of the rye, but both had an appealing appearance with a good, chewy crust and texture.
For $18 per bottle, Brandywine Inn offers wines (one white, one red) specifically selected to complement the meal. We chose L'Orval Chardonnay, a dry French wine with an oaky flavor that was subtle and pleasant. A wine list, beer list and selection of after-dinner liqueurs, port and brandy are also offered.
As Doris placed our first course, she explained that the Seafood Pasta included mussels, shrimp, scallops and bowtie pasta, served in a celery sauce with roasted red bell peppers, onions and tomato. The presentation was lovely. The mussels were delectable, although the tiny scallops were tough and the very tiny shrimps had virtually no flavor. The sauce was tasty, but I found it a bit bland.
One of the delights of the Brandywine Inn was the efficient and attentive service offering an explanation of each item presented to us. We had the opportunity to preview the offerings as the foursome in the corner was served minutes before we were. I believe another relative (a son, perhaps?) was both server and busboy. He delivered a fresh lemon ice and explained it was "to refresh the palate before the entrée." The crisp citrus flavor was lovely, while the ice was smooth, not crunchy with ice crystals.
The thick medallions of Rosemary Roast Pork Tenderloin were tender and topped with a caramel-colored sauce that had a deep, smoky rosemary flavor. Accompaniments included herbed oven-roasted potatoes and beautifully steamed vegetables — zucchini, yellow squash and carrots. The poached Salmon Theodora was deliciously moist and full-flavored. However, the large shrimp atop were bland and chewy, while the tomato velouté sauce was too mild to add much to the succulent salmon. The complements included potato croquettes, savory ovals similar to fried stuffed potatoes and the steamed fresh, crisp vegetables.
Diners may choose from several other entrées — Poached Sea Scallops ($16.95), Stuffed Chicken Breast with spinach, mushrooms and cheese ($15.95) or Filet Mignon with mushroom shallot sauce ($18.95) — if the featured selections don't strike their fancy. Appetizers and desserts can be ordered separately with an à la carte entrée at $3.50 each.
Dessert was a highlight: Pear Frangipane. The firm fruit was pinwheeled into baked almond custard in a rich, buttery crust. The raspberry tone of the Crème Anglaise was the perfect light partner to this enjoyable dessert, sprinkled with toasted almond slivers.
Between serving diners in the three dining rooms, Doris sat at a small desk in the hall, handwriting the guest bills. The personal attention and service the family offers to visitors is a bit of an education about European dining traditions ... without the language barrier. The meal — with most selections made in advance — and the location offer a quiet focal point to enjoy the company you keep at the Brandywine Inn. ©
Brandywine Inn
Go: 204 S. Main St., Monroe
Call: 513-539-8911 or 779-4747
Hours: Thursday and Friday 7 p.m.; Saturday 6, 7 and 8:15 p.m.
Prices: $22.95 per person for prix fixe dinner. À la carte choices also available. (Reasonable to moderate.)
Note: Reservations suggested. Call for a copy of the menu calendar.
Payment: Cash or personal checks only. No credit cards
accepted.
Vegetarian Friendliness: Fish or chicken entrées.
