Rhinegeist is combining French tradition with modern inspiration to add a new restaurant to its repertoire in Over-the-Rhine.
Slated to open in October, Sartre will be housed in a former bottling room from the historic building’s days as a Christian Moerlein plant, with an additional food kiosk in the taproom.
Named after French philosopher and writer Jean-Paul Sartre, the brasserie — self-described as a “French neighborhood diner that serves slow food fast” — fittingly announced itself to the media via a 90-line poem about beauty, connection and good food.
“Sartre was one of few (philosophers) to speak to existentialism,” says Rhinegeist Vice President Bryant Goulding. “Basically, if you act the way you think man should, and everyone acts that way, then we’ll end up in a better place.”
Playing on the concept of authenticity, the main eatery, bar and lounge will seat about 200 people in deep green banquettes and leather couches, blending classic architecture with contemporary design touches — Midcentury lighting, historic barreled ceilings and exposed steel beams.
“We feel like we’ve settled into a foundation here at Rhinegeist that we’re comfortable with and feel like we’re well-taken care of,” Goulding says. “And now we can take on this multi-faceted, super-dynamic project and also devote the right resources to create something compelling and exciting to share with Cincinnati.”
Goulding is working with Sartre’s managing partner Jim Cornwell, an Ohio native and graduate of the New England Culinary Institute. Cornwell has a rich background in French cuisine — the restaurant veteran spent time at Boca, Hugo, the Maisonette and Dutch’s. Chef de Cuisine Justin Uchtman is formerly of San Francisco’s Michelin-starred Italian eatery SPQR.
“I’ve just always been fascinated (with French cuisine),” Cornwell says. “My foundation is there — all my creativity kind of stems from it. I’m excited for (Sartre).”
Leaning on Ohio Valley Food Connection, Cornwell hopes to source from farms all over Ohio in an effort to keep his dishes local. He also has every intention of utilizing the finest ingredients to best walk the line between flavorful and healthy.
“We’re focusing equally on vegetables, grains and proteins,” he says. “We’re thinking we’ll have a Mediterranean influence, a lot. They live a very healthy lifestyle. They don’t sacrifice flavor or interesting combinations of foods to still live a healthy lifestyle. We’re going to tap into that, for sure.”
Included in Cornwell’s creative combinations, Sartre will offer an eggplant beignet fitted with fresh basil and a romesco sauce, a faro and quinoa salad with hen of the woods and chicken of the woods mushrooms and America’s “only true Buffalo mozzarella,” from California’s Double 8 Dairy, served on Allez bakery bread with olive oil, lemon zest, cured egg yolk and bottarga.
Utilizing a full-animal philosophy, the chicken will come roasted, stuffed with chicken mousse and placed in a chicken broth.
The team says the goal is for patrons to be able to visit Sartre a few times a week, with price points to match.
The main restaurant downstairs and the kiosk in the taproom will work together to satisfy those interested in a true restaurant experience or those who just want a quick bite to pair with their beer — there will be snacks to eat in the brewery or Sartre’s bar and lounge, with varied entrée options for a more significant sit-down dinner.
“If you just want to come in and grab a burger and not wait or have a reservation, we wanted to have that approachability, which is why we put the kiosk up here,” Goulding says of the taproom component.
A pneumatic tube will shoot orders from the brewery to the restaurant kitchen.
Matching Rhinegeist’s hours (3 p.m.-midnight Monday-Thursday; 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Friday; noon-2 a.m. Saturday; noon-9 p.m. Sunday), the taproom menu will feature dishes like a burger topped with curated vegetables and stacked between two homemade buns.
The restaurant downstairs will offer a much “sloppier” version.
“We wanted to balance delicious and healthy,” Goulding says. “I think one of the cruxes working in the beer or food world is it’s just kind of hard miles for your body. It’s kind of a celebration of health in a balance of gluttony.”
In addition to its expanded menu, Sartre’s restaurant will also feature well-prepared cocktails, a expansive wine list and an expanded beer selection to allow customers to venture beyond Rhinegeist’s tap options.
“In (the brewery), we see people that want to drink Rhinegeist,” Goulding says. “With Sartre, we’re going to showcase some of those (beer) examples that we love, respect and tip our hat to and want to drink ourselves.
“It’s going to be excellent cuisine, really well prepared cocktails, a great beer selection, but not pretentious. Just comfortable.”
Sartre will initially be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday and will accept reservations.
Sartre
Slated to open in October // GO: Rhinegeist, 1910 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine; CALL: 513-381-1367; INTERNET: facebook.com/sartreotr or sartreotr.com.
