10 Appetizing Food and Dining Stories that we Devoured in Greater Cincinnati in 2023

Star Wars-Themed Pop-Up Bar Galactic Cantina Lands in Over-the-Rhine

By Katherine Barrier
In April, Gorilla Cinema brought a den of scum and villainy to its bar behind its comic book store, Cosmic Gorilla. The pop-up drew intergalactic bounty hunters from all over Greater Cincinnati to post up, enjoy some libations and snacks and wager their ships in heated card games. While the bar has since transformed back into the Harry Potter-themed Pennifold’s Pub, we’ll never forget those months exploring the galaxy just steps away from Findlay Market.

Ohio Held its Nose With the Arrival of Malört on its Shelves

By Madeline Fening
Malört, a liquor with a botanical bitterness courtesy of wormwood (think of it as if someone watered bitter herbs with gasoline and then bottled the runoff), finally made its way onto Ohio shelves this April. Production of Malört started in Chicago in the 1930s before bouncing to Kentucky and Florida, but the hard-to-find spirit has most commonly been found in Chicago, where it developed a cult following. Chicagoans have been throwing back shots of the stuff with an Old Style beer for years, calling the boilermaker a "Chicago Handshake." Ohioans can now get a taste of the unruly spirit, thanks to a partnership between Jeppson’s Malört and Heidelberg Distributing.

Greater Cincinnati Caribbean Soul Food Restaurant Finds the Spotlight

By Katherine Barrier
It was a big year for Big Jays Place, a Caribbean soul food restaurant in Finneytown. The eatery hosted a visit from Mayor of Flavortown Guy Fieri when it was featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives and received praise on national TV for its oxtail dish, with Fieri saying, “If you don’t like oxtail, come here for the Oxtail Conversion Program.” Not only that, but Big Jays also hosted America’s Best Restaurants (ABR), a national media and marketing company that focuses on bringing attention to local, independently-owned restaurants. ABR brought its roadshow to the restaurant in November to film an episode, which will be aired on its website at a later date.

Cincinnati Brewery Closes its Flagship Location in Over-the-Rhine

By Katherine Barrier
Taft’s Brewing Company shocked many when it announced it would close Taft’s Ale House, the brewery’s flagship location in Over-the-Rhine, after eight years in business. The brewery says the pandemic, a decline in tourism and the increase in the cost of goods contributed greatly to its decision to close, but owners say, ultimately, Taft’s Ale House could not compensate for a significant loss in sales since COVID began. Taft’s Brewporium in Spring Grove Village, however, remains open.

Boca and Nicola’s Recognized With 4-Diamond Status from AAA

By Katherine Barrier
Two of Cincinnati’s most popular, fine-dining restaurants had their culinary talents recognized on a national scale this year as they were once again awarded 4-Diamond status from AAA. According to AAA, 4-Diamond restaurants offer "distinctive fine dining,” and Diamonds operate under the "4Cs": cleanliness, comfort, cuisine and consistency. Boca was first honored with 4-Diamond status in 2007, and Nicola’s received its first designation in 2008.

Graeter’s Opens a New Scoop Shop in Union

By Katherine Barrier
Graeter’s Ice Cream opened a new scoop shop in Union, but it isn’t just any ordinary shop. This Graeter’s is part of a collaboration with other popular Greater Cincinnati brands, Braxton Brewing Company and Dewey’s Pizza, which will soon be opening their own spots next to the new Graeter’s. The dining project, a place for “beer lovers, foodies, families and everyone in between,” according to a 2022 press release, will create a new dining and entertainment hub in Northern Kentucky, which will be centered around a 20,000-square-foot greenspace and beer garden. The companies say in addition to being a foodie destination, they want to have specialty programming, music and events.

Graeter’s Launches Five, Limited-Time Summer Bonus Flavors

By Katherine Barrier
This summer, Graeter’s brought back its popular summer bonus flavor offerings, with a selection of five new ice creams. Graeter’s released them one at a time for a limited time, starting with Dough’licious, “a caramel brownie batter ice cream loaded with peanut butter dough, cookie dough and brownie pieces." That was followed by sweet and spicy Hot Honey Crunch, tart and crunchy Lemon Meringue Pie, salty and sweet Buttery Popcorn and a trip to the tropics with Passion Fruit Guava Sorbet.

Atwood Oyster House Opens in Former PearlStar Location

By Katherine Barrier
After PearlStar shuttered abruptly earlier this year, 3 Pigs Hospitality (who also own The Pony and Liberty’s Bar & Bottle) announced it would be opening a new oyster and seafood-focused restaurant in the Vine Street space. Atwood Oyster House opened in November and is helmed by executive chef Seth Ridgill, who most recently worked under chef Hideki Harada at Kiki College Hill, and pastry chef Kayla Hunley, formerly of Pleasantry. Ridgill’s menu is both playful and elegant, characterized by a Southern accent and rooted in French technique. Hunley, meanwhile, is behind the full dessert menu and also collaborates with Ridgill to introduce creative concepts to the savory side of the menu. Guests can also enjoy Atwood’s full bar, which offers a diverse menu of classic and creative house cocktails. The wine list features 16 wines by the glass and 80 bottles, all of which were selected to complement the restaurant’s seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Sister Restaurants PearlStar and Royce Close Abruptly

By Katherine Barrier
PearlStar and Royce, both formerly owned by Nashville restaurateur Terry Raley, closed without warning in February and their respective social media pages quickly went offline. PearlStar opened in the fall of 2021 in the former A Tavola space on Vine Street. The restaurant, highly anticipated at the time, offered both East and West Coast oysters and other raw delicacies such as crudo, ceviche and tartare. The kitchen also featured a wood-burning grill to create (non-raw) burgers and steak sandwiches, and the menu included items for vegans and vegetarians. Atwood Oyster House now occupies the space. As for Royce, the French brasserie was open for just six months before closing, taking its French-leaning menu and raw bar with it. Thunderdome Restaurant Group is now leasing the space, where it plans to open an American-style brasserie.

Lil’s Bagels Reopens Inside Roebling Point Books & Coffee as Lil’s Kitchen

By Katie Griffith
Fans of bagel and sandwich shop Lil’s Bagels were heartbroken when the eatery closed in late 2022 after failed lease negotiations. But not long after the closure, Lil’s announced it would return, this time as Lil’s Kitchen and now located inside the Newport and Dayton locations of Roebling Point Books & Coffee. While the new menu has moved away from bagels and more toward sandwiches and other cafe offerings, everything is still made with the same chutzpah.